Left to our own devices in the afternoons, gelato quickly became a favourite lunch item.  So smooth, so rich, so creamy.  Good as any sandwich.  It wasn’t until I was in my twenties, however, when I really started to crave gelato over ice cream.  And it was around this time that it became much easier to find.  La Paloma was a favourite when I lived in Toronto.  The last few years in Edmonton saw many a dollar go to Da Capo and Leva, with particular memorable cones of cinnamon, whisky cream and lavender.  My travelling also usually involves seeking out a good place or two.

No dry spell hit when I came to Vancouver.  There are so-so spots within walking distance and some special ones (NOT La Casa Gelato) a short drive away.  My bases are covered.  Now, much more than I could ever hope for.

Bella Gelateria recently opened and after one visit, I know it’s the best I’ve ever tasted.
If you like frozen treats, you must go.  The owner, James, is friendly, well-trained and will sing you the praises of gelato much better than I ever could.  Spend time on the website if you want the full run-down on his philosophy and process.  He takes it seriously and it shows.
Did I mention the freshness yet?  If you’ve ever reached into your freezer for some loving from that old pint of ice cream and realized the air has been at it too long, you’ll know why freshness is important.  And when you see a pile of lemon carcasses on his workstation that have just been juiced for his lemon sorbetto, you’ll have the opportunity to taste why freshness is important.
Sicilian pistachios, Meyer lemons, black walnuts coming from the American South.  Those are some cherries from Bologna in my cone.  Nicely nestled beside some fior di latte.

Please pick me up if you’re on your way there.

Bella Gelateria
1001 W Cordova St
Vancouver, BC

Cafe Medina

Still thinking about them upon my return home to Edmonton, I thought perhaps I would do a little “recherche” and find out why those waffles tasted SO GOOD! The answer? These were no ordinary Belgian waffles, these were Liege waffles. Rather than a waffle batter, these are made from a yeast dough and special pearl sugar from Belgium (which incidentally I soon discovered is impossible to track down in Edmonton).  The waffle originated in the Belgian city of Liege in the 18th century as an adaptation of a brioche bread dough. The result is a chewier, denser, richer waffle, with hits of caramelized sugar surprises courtesy of the alchemy of waffle iron heat hitting pearl sugar bits. Think waffle + yeast donut + chewy croissant + warm + yummy toppings.

After Cream and I visited Cafe Medina for a summer birthday weekend last year, we were both hooked. Their offerings of rich toppings like rose caramel, pistachio white chocolate, and fig marmalade were the proverbial cherry on top. It was settled. During Cream’s stay chez Sugar while prepping for her Vancouver move, we would attempt the Liege waffle. Armed with dulce de leche, mango butter, and raspberry laced chocolate toppings, all that remained was the elusive waffle dough. Upon realizing that pearl sugar did not exist at any specialty store in the entire city, internet research told me that I could substitute broken up sugar cubes. Check. With patiently made yeast dough in place, and pretty sugar chunks folded in, they hit the waffle iron. They smelled right. The looked right. They tasted WRONG. Sadness set in.

Liege attempts at home...look pretty, taste bad.

After seeing even Bobby Flay fail miserably on Throw Down against Manhattan’s Liege Waffle King of “Wafels and Dinges” fame, I decided I shouldn’t despair too much. Clearly this is a trained art that requires the kind of perfecting that comes from experience and tradition.

So last summer, with waffles fresh on the brain and satisfaction not achieved on the waffle home front, it was like a beacon of light when right down the street from home we spotted a small white van with waffles on the side. They looked like the round free form variety of the Liege waffle, and Cream and I pulled over the car, examined the van, wondered where we could find these waffles, and left a note that only two crazed foodies would leave, with our contact information and a waffle request. No reply.

THE van

Fast forward to June of 2010 where a tiny white waffle van is parked in front of the WCB building on 107th Street and 99th Avenue and you will find a very happy, very sugar craving, nine month pregnant Sugar, standing in the rain ordering caramel topped Liege waffles in Edmonton!!!! It’s in fact the same van that was parked up my street last summer, and its lovely Belgian proprietor, Bamir Basha, has just opened shop mere weeks before under the name Eva Sweet. Quelle chance! I excitedly let him know that I had left a waffle love note for him last year. He remembered the note on the van last summer and told me that he was in the process of deciding if he was going to make a go of it or not at the time, received the note, and thought, “I should just do it!” After moving to Canada and achieving his dream of buying a house just five years ago, his second dream of once again having a waffle van came to be this late spring.

Eva Sweet's Perfect Liege Waffle Doughs

Bamir excitedly hauled out a photo of himself in his original waffle VW van in Begium, showed me the beautiful doughs in three varieties (original vanilla, cinnamon, and maple) laced with gorgeous pearl sugar drops that he imports from Belgium, and popped my order into the hot iron. As the sweet smell made its way to me, I shared with him my failed attempt at the Liege waffle. He kindly sympathized and said that even after years of practice sometimes just the humidity and climate can ruin a good batch of dough. Too kind. Finally, with hot waffles in hand and caramel sauce dispensed, I enjoyed my first bite. Perfection.

Eva Sweet's Liege Waffle

Mr. Basha’s excitement about what he’s doing, his loving attention to the quality of his product, his careful calculation about getting  just the right amount of sugar and sweetness, his passion for introducing something he loves from his Belgian home to Edmonton’s untrained palate, and his drive to share love through food is evident. That love and attention equals DELICIOUS! I will be back….perhaps far too often. Baby likes sugar.

Remember when I tried to make the Momofuku compost cookie?

Well, I just found out that the actual recipe has been posted.  On Regis and Kelly’s website of all places.  And there’s quite an interesting secret step involving the eggs.

Happy baking if you try them.

Momofuku Compost Cookie
c/o Live with Regis and Kelly

The Momofuku Compost Cookie

I finally got around to trying my hand at recreating the Compost Cookie experience.
Verdict:  failure.  But, not because my cookies were icky.  They just did not taste like the original.  But given that I have a small apartment oven, made up my own recipe and am not a pastry chef of great provenance, I done just fine.

I wanted to keep my first attempt simple.  No crumbs or grounds.  (I also know too many non-coffee drinkers.)  Butterscotch chips can be hard to come by, so I added peanuts.  Next time, I would add more of everything.  I had about two cups of add-ins, but I easily could have increased that to three.  Another “aw, shucks” moment came when I bit down on decidedly uncrisp potato chips and pretzels.  I have no clue how the ones in the original stay so crispy!

In any case, what follows is one of my favourite drop cookie batters—note the lack of white sugar.  To ensure I always get chewy cookies, I underbake by just under a minute.  Freezing is fine.  I actually love cookies just out of the freezer.  After a defrost of about ten minutes, I am in cold dough heaven…
(Remnants of my childhood eating English Bay batter out of the fridge.)

My Compost Cookie

2/3 cup melted butter
2 cups lightly packed brown sugar
2 eggs
2 tablespoons hot water
2 2/3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
2-3 cups add-ins (such as chocolate, nuts, pretzels, potato chips)

Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees.
In a large bowl, beat melted butter, brown sugar, eggs and hot water until smooth.
In another bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Stir into butter mixture until blended.
Stir in add-ins. Drop onto ungreased/parchment cookie sheet.
Bake 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool 1 minute, then move to wire rack.

For my first visit, my party and I ate our way through 9, n-i-n-e, courses.  This time, I noticed you could do a 5- or 9-course family style set menu. Remembering my previous food baby… my dining date and I chose the 5-course menu.   As the kitchen takes your food allergies and aversions into consideration, what follows is the perfect fresh and seasonal menu created just for our table.  I noticed that the table over did 9 courses and had none of the same dishes as us.  Methinks that’s pretty cool.

Some days I dream about those perfect soft, but supportive pasta pillows.  Other days I want to savour little spoonfuls of that light-as-air soufflé.  All days usually require a moment where I want to twirl al dente spaghetti.

House-smoked trout

Parmigianno souffle

Fennel salad with walnuts and blue cheese

Spaghetti ai frutti di mare

Gnocchi with walnuts and gorgonzola

Ruby trout with chanterelle sauce

Saffron and quince tart, chocolate mousse, tiramisu

Dreams can become reality:  I already have another reservation.

La Quercia
3689 West 4th Avenue
Vancouver

Plantain, cassava and yam chips

Baru ceviche

Arepa con chorizo

Guava quesadilla

Why can’t I say much more?  Because I was too busy enjoying an evening out with new friends to pay too much attention to the food… beyond taking photos with my sangria goggles on, that is.

Baru Restaurante Latino
2535 Alma St
Vancouver

The seeking out of specific spots happened more often during the day when I was wandering alone.  And this seeking out was about two things:  sandwiches and ice cream.  I’ve been craving these a lot lately (or always) and being in New York meant that I could easily find some delicious options.  I find great pleasure in a good sandwich.  Nice bread, fresh fillings, the right amount of chew, two-fisted without being insurmountable.  It’s surprising to me how hard getting these attributes can be at times.  Not in New York, however. In addition to Bread and Snack for some yummy sandwiches, I made a trip to the Hampton Chutney Co. in Soho for what essentially is a South Indian sandwich:  the dosa.  Since being introduced to Hampton Chutney a few years ago, it’s become a place I must make my way to when in New York.  Although nowhere near authentic in terms of fillings, the crepes themselves are as crispy and chewy as they should be and the accompanying chutneys always fresh.

Fontina & grilled veg at Bread

Seasonal dosa with mint and pumpkin chutneys

I have no problem admitting that I’m a big fan of Tasti-D-Lite.  I never say no to soft-serve treats and because I grew up in the 80s around all things sugar-free, my palate is completely immune to chemical aftertastes.  That being said, I had none this journey because I had my sights set on more exciting options.

At the Shake Shack in Madison Square Park, I had my first try of frozen custard.  It’s correctly described as the meeting of soft serve and hard ice cream:  the give of hard ice cream with the texture of soft serve.  I loved my cone of that day’s flavour, salted caramel.

Another soft-serve adventure was to Milk Bar, of the Momofuku clan.  Essentially the clan’s dessert outpost, the Milk Bar has quite a following for its cakes and pies, delicious cookies (the Compost variety I tried were crazy good), and inventive soft-serve flavours.  On offer were sweet and salty cucumber, watermelon, horchata, and cereal milk—and guessing what flavour of cereal it is that day is part of the fun.  I sampled what I’m sure was Corn Pops.  I think my afternoon treat of horchata soft serve was one of the highlights of my trip.  Especially as it complemented my walk around the East Village on a warm, fall day.

Gelato is a form of frozen milk I can never say no to.  So, knowing that I would be on the Upper West Side one afternoon, I made my way to Grom, a chain from Italy.  Creamier than most gelato I’ve tried, I was happy with my cone of vanilla and seasonal cinnamon.

After a turn at the Atlantic Antic, I got my first scoops of gelato from my most favourite gelateria—Il Laboratorio del Gelato—at One Girl in Brooklyn.  Ricotta and caramel.  Later that week, I celebrated/bemoaned my last day in New York by heading to their Lower East Side shop to partake in fresh mint, rum raisin, and malt.  There is never enough.

And there is never enough time in New York.

Now don’t get me wrong, here in Edmonton we have some delightful culinary spots that I am fiercely loyal to (Tree Stone Bakery, Cafe Leva, Culina, Viphalay, The Red Ox Inn, Acajutla to name a few), but we certainly have had some gaping holes and can’t expect to find the same variety that a populated city like New York can offer (like a counter service shop that has dedicated itself to turning out perfect porchetta sandwiches, cleverly called Porchetta). That is why I could not be more delighted to have intersected with friends on the same mission for sweets, and to have enjoyed a chilly October Saturday afternoon right here at home in the newly opened Duchess Bake Shop on 124th Street in Edmonton.

After treats at NYC’s Balthazar Bakery and the post-Paris constant craving for Pierre Hermé macarons, I am in a constant state of lusting after proper French sugar delights, and I am rejoicing in the fact that they have finally arrived in grand form in Edmonton. Duchess Bake Shop is a simple and elegantly decorated space with high gilded ceilings, a shabby chic chandelier, clean white lines,  and a well appointed pastry case that highlights their beautifully executed creme tarts, croissants (almond croissants and pain au chocolat which they were sadly sold out of….I will be back to sample the almond paste filled double baked almond croissants with a secret wish that they will be as delicious as their counterparts at Thomas Haas in Vancouver), duchess signature petit gateaus, madeleines, florentines, and of course, macarons.

With anticipatory glee, we ordered a plate of macarons in all four of the remaining flavours of the day: chocolate, strawberry, pistachio, and lemon. With word that they had sold out of the lavender and salted caramel, and with a rose flavour in the works, I knew I would be back soon for more. For those who have not had the pleasure of enjoying a macaron before, do not confuse these with the sugary coconut and chocolate bonbon that we call a macaroon here in North America. Wikipedia describes the macaron as “dating back to the 18th century, macarons are a traditional French pastry, made of egg whites, almond powder, icing sugar,  and sugar. This sweet pastry came out of the French courts’ baker’s oven as round meringue-like domes with a flat base. Macarons are sandwich-like pastries made with two thin cookies and a cream or ganache between the cookies.”

The crisp, chewy, soft goodness of these well executed macarons, combined with the excellent ganache fillings that are not too sweet, and are naturally flavoured, was just the post-holiday medicine this girl needed. Add to that excellent cafe au laits and a nice selection of black teas, and Duchess Bake Shop gets two sugar coated thumbs up. Exquisite French Pastry Shop? Check. Now if only someone would open a good Jewish deli……

I had my first pupusa six years ago at Acajutla.  It was a moment that changed my carb-loving life forever.

Not much more than a corn dough pocket filled with good stuff like seasoned pork, refried beans, and cheese, the simple pupusa from El Salvador has few culinary rivals in my world.

[Apologies in advance for the many cellphone camera photos.]

Naked Acajutla pupusas

Fully dressed Acajutla pupusas

I was happy enough with my Acajutla relationship until El Rancho came along.
With additional filling offerings such as zucchini and loroco, my fidelity was seriously in question.  After my first taste, my heart now belonged to another.

If you’re from Edmonton, it is likely that someone at some point has asked if you are on Team Acajutla or Team El Rancho.
Me? Team El Rancho.

El Rancho pupusas

But in a town where you’re lucky enough to choose between the two, the difference is really just preference, not because one is substantially better than the other.
I find that El Rancho pupusas tend to be smaller, thicker, and with a crispier exterior.  They are easier to eat with your hands if you like to split them open.  Acajutla pupusas are cheesier and have a larger diameter.  In terms of the pupusa accoutrements, Acajutla makes a better salsa roja (red sauce), El Rancho, a better curtido (cabbage slaw).

El Rancho pupusas split

It’s all apples to apples after that for me.  I like the homemade tortilla of an Acajutla burrito, but I like the El Rancho insides better.  Acajutla gets many points for their avocado sauce, but El Rancho has better desserts… I love their tres leches cake.

Acajutla burrito

And I can’t forget about El Rancho’s salad.  I have no idea what their brown dressing is, but it’s addictive.

El Rancho's house salad

I will greatly miss it.

*****************************************

This post marks my end in Edmonton and my beginning in Vancouver.

Cream has jumped the Rockies and set herself up on the West Coast.

This weekend, I finished getting everything out of boxes and am starting to feel comfy in my new home.
To celebrate, I went for pupusas.
With one mixed, two bean and cheese, and a side of guacamole as a nod to Acajutla’s green sauce, I have found a little piece of El Salvador to remind me of home.  And right on Commercial Drive.

El Rancho
11810 87 St
Edmonton

Acajutla
11302 107 Ave
Edmonton

Rinconcito Salvadoreno
2062 Commercial Drive
Vancouver

With comedy odes to the cured confection and a smattering of hot young chefs rethinking the salty ingredient, bacon is back on the menu as a decadent treat to finish the meal. Portland’s Voodoo Donut is turning out the maple glazed bacon donut. LA’s Animal Restaurant , which was our LA dining highlight this summer, has found a hit in its Bacon Chocolate Crunch Bar with Salt and Pepper Anglaise. And closer to home, Edmonton’s Kerstin’s Chocolates boldly offered chocolate covered bacon for those salt loving Dads for Father’s Day.

Inspired by pork, salt, chocolate, and those that have gone before, I embarked upon the Bacon Chocolate Chip Cookie project. With a recipe in hand that had only too many disclaimers about adjusting this and that to avoid dryness, I decided that I would adapt my own perfect chocolate chip cookie recipe. It goes a little something like this….

Bacon Chocolate Chip Cookies with Maple Cinnamon Glaze

1 cup butter, softened

3/4 cup sugar

3/4 cup brown sugar

2 eggs

2 tsp vanilla

2-1/4 cups all purpose flour

1 tsp baking soda

1/2 tsp salt

2 cups of cooked bacon bits (Good quality bacon is key. A quick cheat: use the fresh cooked bacon bits from Sunterra Market)

1 cup dark chocolate chips

1/2 cup white chocolate chips

5 strips of cooked bacon, cooled and cut into one inch strips (to top the cookies)

For the glaze:

1 cup powdered sugar

2 tsp maple extract

1 tsp vanilla

1/4 tsp cinnamon

1 tbsp water

Heat oven to 375 degrees.

Combine flour, baking soda, and salt, and set aside. In a large bowl, cream butter, sugars, eggs, and vanilla, until light and fluffy. Gradually stir flour mixture into creamed mixture.

Add both chocolate chips and cooked bacon bits. Mix to incorporate.

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Using a cookie scoop (my favorite cookie baking tool next to parchment paper) or your hands, make approximately one inch balls.

Bake for a total of 9-10 minutes. I recommend swapping the cookie sheets racks half way through baking to ensure even baking of both.

While the cookies bake, mix the Maple Cinnamon Glaze by combining the powdered sugar, maple extract, vanilla, and cinnamon, and mix together until smooth and creamy.

Once baked, move cookies to a cooling rack, add a small amount of glaze, and top with the reserved squares of crisp bacon.

Soft, chewy, sweet, salty, indulgent cookie perfection. Warm from the oven, they were so good that I forgot to share.