A place that specializes in extraordinary soft-serve ice cream concoctions? Sign me up.  The magic words were “soft serve.” Although “big gay” is pretty enticing as well.

I may have acquired some high brow and expensive tastes over the years, but I’ll never forget where I cam from: a home that was walking distance from a McDonald’s and a Dairy Queen. My love of ice cream started with that which is extruded and swirled into a cone, chemicals and all. I love it and will always turn my head towards a doorway selling the stuff. So, I knew that I would quickly be making a visit to the Big Gay Ice Cream Shop in the East Village. Once only a summertime ice cream truck, the Big Gays added a 365 days/year bricks and mortar storefront so that we would always know where to find our Salty Pimps, Bea Arthurs and Cococones. Just look for the rainbow.

The repetition that is rampant on the Food Network means that I’ve seen the Salty Pimp (dulce de leche, chocolate dip, salt) cone episode of The Best Thing I Ever Ate about 17 times. Gail Simmons sings its praises. Everyone sings its praises. I mean, you can’t really go wrong with that line up, but being someone who would NEVER order a chocolate dip and who doesn’t like to always jump on the bandwagon, I went in other directions on my two visits. Olive oil and sea salt? Hello! Curried coconut dip? Why not?

The oil and salt was the better of the two. Although they do you a good turn by putting some coconut at the bottom of the cone to prolong the fun. But, within the span of five licks, you’ve pretty much cleaned the cone of coconut. And the curry flavour wasn’t as strong as it could be. The richness of the olive oil was perfect against the creaminess of the ice cream. The only quibble is that this topping requires a dish. Cones and cups are not meant to intersect.

And to be clear, the ice cream itself is not all that different from what you’d get at any Mister Softee across the city. This is honest-to-goodness average soft serve. It’s probably all natural, but who cares. I’ve been eating the chemical-laden good stuff my whole life and look where it’s got me: New York City.

Big Gay Ice Cream Shop
125 East 7th St, New York

I made it! After walking by the line snaking through Madison Square Park numerous times while vacationing in New York the past few years, I finally stopped and got myself in the queue at the original Shake Shack location. The line is as legendary as the food. I thought I made a smart move by going at 8:30 on a warm-ish spring eve instead during the afternoon of a hot spring day. I waited 45 minutes in line and another 10 for my food. My burger and fries were worth the wait, but that line is killer. Be prepared.

As lovely as the weather was and as good as my meal tasted, the best part of my Shake Shack experience was confirming how friendly New Yorkers are. In all my travels, I’d never have said that New Yorkers were unfriendly; I think I just always noticed how direct they can be. Now that I’m living here and my interactions have increased exponentially, I can tell you that the directness is just related to the fact that New Yorkers don’t mess about. There’s no time to. There are places to go and people to see. So, you ask a question, you get an answer. You don’t know where something is, you get directions. You bump into someone, they accept your apology. There’s just none of the back and forth pleasantries with big grins that I’m used to. Which is totally fine. Because the heart and goodness is still there, it’s just a little bit sharp around the edges.

The heart and goodness I experienced at Shake Shack took the form of three lovely young ladies who stood in front of me in line. During the three quarters of an hour, we would chat every now and again. What did they recommend off the menu? Does the line move fast? Yes, it’s my first Shack Shack experience. I’m new to these parts. While sitting under the glow of the lit globes waiting for my buzzer to buzz and alert me to Shackburger heaven, I got an invite to join them at their table. I completely forgot their names, but I had a very enjoyable and memorable meal talking to these friendly New Yorkers. Karma will return their kindness, and I’m sure it will be twice as awesome as a meal at Shake Shack.

Today’s Special: Whisky bread, Gwynett St

The reservation stars aligned on Saturday. OpenTable presented me with a table for two during prime time at East Williamsburg hot spot Gwynett St. Since opening last fall, the number of positive write ups have been been steadily climbing, with a number of them being published during the last few weeks. My friend and I had a wonderful dinner, letting our hunger guide us to our fair share of menu items, including a maitake mushroom covered in ribbons of salty lardo and a coconut panna cotta touched by all that’s fun and inspiring in molecular gastronomy. The ball got rolling with their baked-to-order whisky bread. With the texture of a biscuit and the aroma of a saloon—in the best possible way—I fell head over heels for this little loaf. The bread could have been cooked a bit longer to achieve a greater contrast between spongy middle and golden crust, but that’s just a quibble. The texture keeps you from filling up on this bread, which has a benefit beyond room for the rest of your meal: leftovers. Toasted and slathered with butter the next morning had me moaning with pleasure and looking to my calendar for an appropriate date to go back for more.

Gwynett St
312 Graham Ave, Williamsburg, New York

It seems meatballs are having their moment in the sun. Or should I say in the oven, or on our plates? Much like the fatigued cupcake has proven, you know when New Yorkers start lining up in droves for something, it’s a thing. Big or small. Swedish, Greek, or Italian. Nestled next to a heap of starch in the form of creamy potatoes or on top of old smoky all covered with cheese. Beef, turkey, pork, or lamb. We want to eat them. We will line up for them. Sadly for me, unlike my New York City counterpart, lining up at the Meatball Shop is not an option when little balls of perfectly seasoned meat are required. So to the kitchen I go.

Spaghetti and meatballs make regular appearances at our dinner table, as do little Greek lamb keftedes with fresh tzaziki, but Sweden had not made its way into the international ball rotation yet. That is until I received my September 2011 issue of Bon Appétit. A recipe for Swedish meatballs from NYC’s Smörgås Chef, combining beef, pork, and yes, bacon, made Sweden a tough competitor in my kitchen meatball Olympics. Perfectly seasoned with the nutty aroma of nutmeg and allspice, and bathed in a rich and creamy gravy, these little meat treats are perfect next to a heap of mashed potatoes. In my kitchen, proper mashed potatoes means put through a ricer, and mixed with plenty of melted butter and warm cream. With some buttered fresh peas on the side, and of course the essential IKEA lingonberry jam, Sweden is winning gold as of late. Like they weren’t already stylish and fabulous enough. I recommend enjoying with a side of Jens Lekman.

Swedish Meatball (from www.bonappetit.com)
Serves 6-8

1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
2 1/3 cups low-salt beef stock, divided
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 cup minced onion
2 thick slices bacon, minced
1 pound ground beef
3/4 pound ground pork
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sour cream, whisked

Mix breadcrumbs and 1/3 cup stock in a small bowl. Set aside. Melt 1 Tbsp. butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until browned, about 10 minutes. Transfer onion to a large bowl.

Wipe out pan and return to medium heat. Add bacon and cook until crisp. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to bowl with onion. (Reserve bacon fat.) Add next 8 ingredients to bowl with onion mixture, mixing with your hands to blend. Fold in breadcrumb mixture. Using a 1 Tbsp. measure, roll meat mixture into balls; transfer to a rimmed baking sheet.

Melt 1 Tbsp. butter with reserved bacon fat in a large heavy pot over medium-low heat. Working in 3 batches and adding 1 Tbsp. butter between batches, brown meatballs on all sides, about 6-8 minutes per batch. Transfer meatballs to a plate. Drain all but 2 Tbsp. drippings from pot. Whisk in flour until smooth paste forms. Stir in 2 cups stock; bring to a simmer, whisking often. Return meatballs to pot. Cover; simmer until meatballs are cooked, 5-6 minutes. Remove from heat, whisk in sour cream, and stir to coat meatballs.

Set duck lunch at Momofuku Ssam Bar.

My first week in New York City was a steady diet of riding the train, scouring Craigslist, and viewing apartments. In between, I ate and went to museums. Just like I was on vacation. Don’t tell my wallet. And although I’m here now, living in New York, my hunger and excitement wanted me to eat like time was limited. I gave in. My pants grew tighter. And as expected, I got a great taste for all the wonderful food adventures that lie ahead of me.

Pastrami-cured salmon and scallion cream cheese on pumpernickel at Russ & Daughters.

I made an effort to try a few places that would be more ideal to visit during a weekday: Momofuku Ssam Bar, Russ & Daughters, Saltie, the Doughnut Plant. All worth their salty and sugary calories. I was actually surprised how much I enjoyed my duck lunch. I’m of the mind that David Chang & Co are kind of overexposed and too hyped up. Although a hefty $20 for the two-course set, I left very very happy. The doughnuts? Pure bliss. I am not a doughnut person, but I am now a Doughnut Plant person. I think that having both cake and yeast varieties during a visit is the only way to go. Double your pleasure, double your fun.

Before settling into my own place, I’ve been staying in Williamsburg. The rumours are all true: it’s more hipster than you could ever imagine, and the food (and drink) is some of the best in the boroughs. After returning for a few more visits, I still think that Roberta’s is the best pizza I’ve ever had. I can’t get enough. Just like in Vancouver, hipsters like their coffee. So far, I’ve tried both Blue Bottle and Toby’s Estate. Both are spaces that make you want to linger and sip all day, and both provide you with very high quality joe.

I can't take any more top knots!

The Scuttlebutt at Saltie.

Blueberry pancakes with maple butter at Clinton Street Baking Co.

And on a Sunday with no apartments to see and nothing but time, I decided to brave the wait for a tiny window seat at Clinton Street Baking Co. and finally try their much-discussed pancakes. I went with the classic blueberry and added a side of sugar-cured bacon. The wow factor is the maple butter sauce. On their own, the stack is fine, but it’s the sauce that makes them legendary. And the legend leads to lines. Big ones. But it’s New York, so I just filled the hour-long gap with a $9 manicure.

Tres leches and peanut butter and banana cream doughnuts from the Doughnut Plant.

So, this was just the beginning. And with the smallest apartment kitchen I’ve ever had in my future, the cooking chronicles of Cream might be few and far between. But I’ll still be eating (out) lots. And my camera phone is much improved.

Suggestions?

The list that details how we will pack our tummies while adventuring away from home can be as essential as the one that reminds us to pack our toothbrush. Here are some post-mortem thoughts on our travels that may be useful to you one day.

I’m not sure if I can be called a New Yorker yet, but having been here a week+ means that I’m slowly losing that feeling that I have another home to return to. Vancouver is previous, the Big Apple is next. I still can’t wrap my brain around it. If this is in fact some crazy dream, I’m getting my fill of some fantastic NYC food so that if I’m pinched, I’ll at least have some extra padding so it doesn’t hurt as much. And as wonderful as it is to be and eat here, I cannot forget all that Vancouver offered me and can offer you if you have a chance to visit. Thus, I’ll pass on my list of favourites in the form of a Packing List. As always with lists like these, my Vancouver eating was by no means comprehensive. I mean, I never ate Chinese food in Richmond, had a Japadog or got my fingers sticky with a Honey’s doughnut. Shoot me. Most of these I’ve written about before, so I won’t go into great detail. This is my list of familiar and much loved, and in time, I’m sure, much missed.

La Quercia

Although this list is not in any particular order, La Quercia will always be my favourite and first choice in Vancouver. The well-executed and comforting Italian menu, the impeccable and warm service, the relaxed ambiance… I was always happy when I stepped through the door. I highly recommend going the alla familiglia dining route when there, but I have also done à la carte with no complaints. I just think it’s much more fun to let the chef decide. Every course then becomes a surprise. And while I usually don’t like surprises, I crave the ones from La Quercia. Agnolotti di Guido, Spaghetti all’Amatriciana, Vitello Tonnato. Be still my heart. Reservations are usually quite hard to get, so if you need a quick fix, check out their daytime affair La Ghianda across the street. I’m very very sad to have left before being able to try the wine bar they are opening next door, L’Ufficio. Tell me all about it when you go.

(Cream and Sugar post 1, 2, 3, 4)

Nook

I always describe Nook as a French bistro that serves Italian food. It’s a tight, loud place in the heart of the West End that you visit for a nice glass of wine and above average bowl of pasta or thin-crust pizza. Cuisine that’s so overdone and so often overly boring. Not so at Nook. True to Italian cuisine, the preparation is kept simple, and the ingredients are always of the highest quality. Nook was the first place where I tried burrata cheese, and so I don’t know how I will ever repay that kindness because I’m now burrata crazy. Being a true neighbourhood place, the staff make a great effort to be friendly and remember your patronage. A no-brainer choice on a Friday night when you don’t want to cook.

Nicli Antica Pizzeria

Nicli was the first to bring true Napoletana-style pizza to Vancouver, and I think that they deserve the top spot after the wave of imitators that came after. Not to say that the others aren’t good, but my vote will always go to Nicli. Yes, the waits can be long, and it’s not the type of pizza you can take out, but that chewy, charred crust is hard to forget. I’ve always really liked the Bianca, but with this style, you can never go wrong with the classic Margherita. And $5/glass house wine? Yes, please.

(Cream and Sugar post)

Peaceful

So, I don’t know if I ever told you, but I don’t really like Chinese food. I think it’s because I’ve never had good Chinese food. One bad dim sum outing over 10 years ago means I’ve never been back, and memories of pineapple chicken balls, day-glo orange sauce and over seasoned fried rice from mall food courts equals an acquired aversion for everything else. But then I finally tried Peaceful Restaurant. I knew that it was a favourite for foodies in the know and had been featured on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives, but it took me a long time to finally get my act together and make plans to eat there. The tragedy is that I only got to do it once. Dan Dan noodles, spicy green beans, beef roll and cumin beef sesame flatbread. These four dishes rocked my world and made a crack for Chinese food love to creep in. Again, tragedy that I’m no longer in Vancouver to blow it wide open. New York will have to do.

Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie

Because Bao Bei isn’t “authentic” Chinese food, I never really viewed it through my “I don’t like Chinese food” glasses, but it did get my feet wet. I knew it was a trendy place serving a menu inspired by places like Peaceful. And yes, the prices are much higher than “traditional” Chinese restaurants, and the dishes nowhere near the same. Complaining about these things is missing the point. Bao Bei isn’t trying to be Peaceful. It’s a gem of a restaurant that offers a unique experience. The food tastes good, the room looks amazing, the cocktails are fantastic, the service always good. I’ll pay for that again and again.

Maenam

Ugh. Thai food is so good, but it’s so hard to find places that do it well and are worth the cost. I find it appalling that curries that amount to little more than coconut milk and sugar equal $18 a bowl. Red, yellow, green that all taste the same; pad thai clearly made with ketchup. So sad. Your frown gets turned upside down at Maenam. Palpable spice, fresh herbs, quality meats and fish, wine pairings, fancy cocktails—contemporary Thai food that gets you excited and makes you forget to order by colour.

(Cream and Sugar post)

Vij’s/Rangoli

If you only had one meal in Vancouver, it should be within the empire of Vikram Vij. While La Quercia holds a special place in my heart, Vij’s and Rangoli are  in a class of their own. If you have the time and money, do it up big at Vij’s. If you don’t, go to Rangoli. They are different dining experiences, but the quality of food is the same: amazeballs. All the praise you’ve heard from everybody else is completely true.

(Cream and Sugar post 1, 2)

Cafe Medina

Cafe Medina was my favourite place for brunch. The wait can be long on a weekend, but you get yourself a lavendar latte in a to-go cup and natter away with your friends. Nowhere near diner style with its inventive egg dishes, Liege waffles, and creative coffee concoctions, Medina is the place to go when you remembered to put make up on after you rolled out of bed late on a Sunday. Not stuffy, but certainly not greasy. The perfect place to start or end a date…!

(Cream and Sugar post 1, 2)

Kingyo/Suika

You can’t visit Vancouver without trying an izakaya, and local favourites are the Hapa and Guu chains. My first try was at Kingyo, and I felt it was never matched by others. That is, of course, until they opened up their sister restaurant Suika. Less corporate than Hapa and more charming than Guu, Kingyo and Suika offer fun tapas-style plates that do their job of being the perfect complement to an alcoholic bevvie. There’s usually something for everyone and because of the small plate style, everyone can try what they want. The fish was always incredibly fresh and the deep fried items always worth their calories.

(Cream and Sugar post)

Hawksworth

One of my farewell dinners was in the Hawksworth dining room, and it was truly a special night. Yes, it’s a fancy and expensive restaurant where the server will place the napkin on your lap, but there is no pretense or attitude. I knew this going in because I’d had cocktails in the lounge a number of times and never was disappointed. The food, ambiance and service is worth all the recent hype. The beef short rib appetizer is definitely worth getting, as is the Hotel Georgia cocktail. Go all out and get an appetizer, entree and dessert. Portions are appropriate for splurging. (But, I think you should always eat a “well-rounded” meal!)

Aphrodite’s

Aphrodite’s is overpriced and a pain to get to in deep Kitsilano/Point Grey, but it has the best pie in the city. And I’m a big sucker for pie. Raspberry-rhubarb, apple-blackberry, pumpkin and chocolate-banana cream all made me weak at the knees. I stopped caring about the price per slice because they were too good. AND they make gluten-free pie. Aphrodite’s is also a great place to go when you feel like something homey and healthy like soup and a salad. The food is organic so yeah, I guess, that’s why it’s not that easy on the wallet. Just make sure you have a piece of pie. The happy coma afterward always made me forget the bill.

Finch’s Tea House

Finch’s is the epitome of charm and the place to go for simple, beautiful sandwiches. I say “beautiful” because they are always picture perfect; the fillings are placed just so, and the butcher paper they’re served on is the perfect backdrop. I am a fan of the ones made with the blue brie. Their sandwiches are the type you can easily make at home, but always forget to, so a visit here with a paper and a cup of tea, sitting on what could be your grandmother’s furniture, leaves a strong impression. The perfect place to go if you have a weekday off.

(Cream and Sugar post)

Shiro

Sushi! As ubiquitous as coffee in Vancouver. You can’t walk five feet in Vancouver without coming across a sushi place, and you are hard-pressed to find a Vancouverite who doesn’t crave sushi all the time. At the ready and cheap don’t mean awesome, though. I’ve always been shocked at the low standards Vancouverites will accept when it comes to sushi. You have to spend some time wading through a lot of crap to find the good stuff. I never got to go to Tojo’s, but I did have delicious sushi that was extremely affordable. My favourite of what I did try was Shiro, with Ajisai being a close second.  I liked that it was always full of Japanese people, and I liked that only wild salmon was used at a price cheaper than a lot of places charge for farmed. P.S. Lunch Set G is a crazy-good deal if you are a fan of pork katsu-don.

A big thanks to all these restaurants for such fantastic food memories. And a big smooch to all my friends who shared these experiences with me. I feel like I might have used “unique experience” one too many times. But what can I say? They all ARE unique experiences. Go. Enjoy. Get full. Walk it all off along the sea wall.

Easter brunch has become a tradition at our house. Gone are the days of the giant turkey dinner and ham feast. We favour getting the eating out of the way first thing, then stuffing ourselves with chocolate treats for the rest of the day. While my family would be disappointed if I took the stuffed French toast off the menu, I was tempted this year to make MY favourite breakfast of Huevos Rancheros. Alas, I’m going to aim to please the crowds this year, but maybe next year I’ll be self indulgent and make it Mexican Easter. Huevos and tequila champagne cocktails, perhaps?

Luckily, just before Cream made her big move to NYC, I got to cook a thing or two for her in Edmonton. We enjoyed our lazy tea sipping, pajama wearing mornings together, and stuffed ourselves silly so that lunch became a thing of obscurity most days. What better way to start a Saturday morning with your bestie than with a filling breakfast of Huevos Rancheros with fresh salsa, avocado, and sour cream…and a squeeze of lime of course. I could eat it for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Happy chocolate eating, bunny spotting, egg hiding day, no matter what’s on the menu.

Sugar’s Huevos Rancheros (serves 4)

4 corn tortillas
4 eggs
1 can of refried beans, warmed (I like Amy’s Organic Traditional Style)
1/2 cup of shredded cheese (sharp cheddar, jack, or even feta are great)
2 avocadoes, quartered
sour cream
fresh salsa (recipe below)
lime, quartered

For the fresh salsa combine the following:
1/4 cup finely diced onion
2 diced tomatoes
handful of chopped cilantro
clove of crushed garlic
juice of one lemon
squeeze of Sriracha (or more if you like it hot)
salt to taste

Heat oven on broil. Place 4 corn tortillas on a baking sheet. Top with warmed beans. Gently add a slightly undercooked sunny side up fried egg. Top with cheese and place for just a minute of two under the broiler until the cheese is melted.

Top with avocado, fresh salsa, sour cream, and a squeeze of lime.

This is another party that I’m way late for: no-knead bread (and see below: no-knead pizza dough). But I’ve arrived now, and I’m double fisting drinks and dancing on the table until the rooster crows. I get why everyone was talking about it now. It’s easy! It’s good! It makes you feel like a pro!

The easy part is the clincher. While certainly no master baker, I have had the pleasure of making loaves by hand and getting my daily exercise requirement through what seemed like hours of kneading. The result of all that labour was certainly a sight to behold, and I was immensely proud that I had made that soft block of carbohydrates from which a heavenly aroma emanated. But that pride quickly changes to hunger and before you know it, you’re tearing it apart, the butter knife is heavy with salty goodness and… it’s gone. And your pride is just a memory. Until the next day. When your sore wrists and shoulders and back remind you of how much work you put into that block that’s no more.

So, let’s thank Jim Lahey of the Sullivan Street Bakery in New York City for giving us a way to still have pride, still eat fresh bread and yet do it all without any sore wrists or counter tops and floors covered in dusting flour. THANK YOU, JIM. This recipe is all about the, “If you’ve got the time, baby, you’ve got the bread” factor. A day. That’s all you need. Make the dough one night and you’ll have fresh bread for your dinner party the next. This is like a slow cooker method for bread. Set it and forget it.

When it comes out of the oven, you’ll feel no less pride because of the lack of elbow grease. Fresh loaves are things of beauty and should be lovingly caressed in the moments leading up to the first cut. YOU made that. You’re bringing the carbo-love today. Stand tall. Smile big. Feel proud.

In all seriousness, this recipe makes a fabulous and unique loaf of bread. It’s just the kind you want on a platter with meat and cheese or alongside some beef bourguignon leftovers or to make a grilled cheese with. It’s chewy and light, with a crust that’s less crackly than it looks. Make some.

And when you do, think of me heading to the Sullivan Street Bakery in New York City trying to thank Jim in person and ordering one of his famous Pizza Biancas while I wait to do so. ‘Cause big news readers: Cream is moving to the Big Apple! An incredible door has opened for me, and I’m going to walk right through. Get ready for much more documented eating and much less cooking. Hello, delivery.

Jim Lahey/Sullivan Street Bakery No-Knead Bread
Adapted from the Sullivan Street Bakery website

3 cups (430g) flour
1½ cups (345g or 12oz) water
¼ teaspoon (1g) yeast
1¼ teaspoon (8g) salt
olive oil (for coating)
extra flour, wheat bran, or cornmeal (for dusting)

Remove the dough from the bowl and fold once or twice. Or don’t. I found the dough MUCH too sticky to handle and skipped this step and went straight to the cotton towel the second time I made the bread to no ill effect. Let the dough rest 15 minutes in the bowl or on the work surface. Next, shape the dough into ball. Generously coat a cotton (not terry though) towel or large cotton cloth napkin with flour, wheat bran, or cornmeal; place the dough seam side down on the towel and dust with flour. Cover the dough with the cotton towel (or a second one if your first isn’t big enough) and let rise 1-2 hours at room temperature, until more than doubled in size.

Preheat oven to 450-500 degrees Fahrenheit. Place a 6-8 quart pot (Pyrex glass, cast iron or ceramic) in the oven at least 30 minutes prior to baking to preheat. Once the dough has more than doubled in volume, remove the pot from the oven and place the dough in the pot seam side up. Cover with the lid and bake 30 minutes Then remove the lid and bake 15-30 minutes uncovered, until the loaf is nicely browned.

Jim Lahey/Sullivan Street Bakery No-Knead Pizza Dough
Adapted from www.madebyfrances.com via New York Magazine

With the success of the bread behind me, I thought I would check out Jim’s pizza dough as well. Now, many of you may have seen that Bon Appetit just published a pizza dough recipe from him. It is different than this recipe that was published earlier. I shake my head at BA sometimes. A similar thing happened with the Momofuku Crack Pie. The BA version was different than earlier (and still authentic) versions. Why the difference? Who knows, but I’m sticking to versions that appear to be published before sexy BA tried to make them famous.

I’m not sure why I made pizza at home. It pales pales pales in comparison to pizza made in commercial ovens. I will argue with you over this until I lose my breath unless you can show me that your home oven reaches the 800-900 degrees necessary to make a good pie. Making a calzone at home is much better idea, in my opinion. It’s still not the same, but I think the result is much better than a pizza.

Makes 4, 10-inch pies or calzones

3 cups flour, more for dusting and light working of the dough
1/4 tsp. instant yeast
11/2 tsp. salt
11/4 cups water

Mix the flour, yeast, salt and water. Cover with plastic wrap or a non-terry cloth towel. Let the dough sit in a warm room for 12-24 hours. It will have doubled in size.

Plop the dough out onto a floured surface. Fold it over once or twice. Go for it, this dough is much less sticky. Let it rest for 15 minutes.

Divide the dough into 4 balls of equal size. Let the dough balls rise covered with a floured cloth for 2 hours. Once risen, they are ready to be made into pizzas.

Follow my tips on how best to cook a pizza or calzone in a traditional oven here and here.

Image courtesy of joannagoddard.blogspot.com

The internet is a great source for all things foodie, and we’re constantly bookmarking, starring, and emailing intriguing recipes, food porn, and inspiration. Here’s a selection of clippings we think are worth checking out.

I’m a huge fan of Joanna Goddard’s blog A Cup of Jo, and her new Wednesday “slam-dunk” recipe series has me bookmarking recipes to make ASAP. I’ve already whipped up this perfect little cheesy egg sandwich, and I need this perfectly easy chocolate ice cream. Like immediately.

Fresh and simple saffron pappardelle with spiced butter sounds delightful. Fat noodles with butter and other goodies. How could it possibly be anything but good?

Gin, elderflower, champagne, and Lady Sybil. If I had a bell to ding for service, I’d have one of these cocktails in my hand right now.

What to do with leftover squash besides make a soup? That was my predicament. Sure, a butternut soup would be good. Add some crusty bread and a green salad, and you’d have a meal worthy of guests. I should say, a healthy meal worth of guests.

But I would not be having any guests, and I would not be worried about being  healthy. This was the height of a post-Christmas hibernation-staycation, where you don’t get up before noon,  comfy clothes made of cotton are the uniform, and a nightly ritual of catching up on Downton Abbey is the most important act of the day. Healthy was for January 1. So, my predicament really was, what to do with leftover squash to make it less healthy? The grilled cheese was one way, how about dumplings soaked in brown butter for the next? Done.

I know sage is all the rage (or was all the rage?) but if you haven’t had crispy sage, try it. You’ll want it as a topping on everything. The same goes for brown butter. Don’t be afraid if you’re a newbie at making it. It makes your kitchen smell like shortbread. Add little salty clouds of squash heaven and you’ve got the perfect winter plate of comfort. You could add a green salad and some crusty bread and then invite some guests, but you should probably change out of the comfy clothes before you do so.

Butternut Squash Gnudi with Brown Butter and Crispy Sage
Adapted from Mark Bittman
Serves 3.

I just copied what I learned from Mark last year and substituted squash. The one thing I did though was drain my mashed squash. Squash has a lot of moisture, so to get the needed consistency for this dough, you’d likely end up using a lot of flour. This could leave you with leaden little clouds. If you have the time, drain your squash in some cheesecloth over a bowl in the fridge for a few hours. You won’t get a ton of liquid out, but it will help with keeping the gnudi light.
Oh, and I’m calling them gnudi this year. I don’t think Mark is necessarily wrong in calling the ricotta version gnocchi, but my reading and research has lead me to believe that these dumplings are like naked ravioli, gnudi. That is, ravioli filling without the pasta shell. Gnudi, gnocchi, delicious all the same.

Salt
2 cups cooked, mashed squash, preferably drained of excess moisture
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 1/4 cups freshly grated parmesan, plus more for serving
Freshly ground black pepper
3/4 to 1 cup flour
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
10 or more sage leaves

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Combine the squash, eggs and Parmesan in a large bowl, along with some salt and pepper. Add about 1/2 cup flour and stir; add more flour until the mixture forms a very sticky dough. Scoop up a spoonful of dough and boil it to make sure it will hold its shape; if it does not, stir in a bit more flour.

Put the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. When it melts and turns a nutty brown color, add the sage. While it fries, drop the squash mixture by the rounded tablespoon (a cookie scoop comes in handy here) into the boiling water, watching not to overload the pot.

When the gnudi rise to the surface, remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to the skillet. When all the gnudi are done, toss, taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve immediately.

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