A place that specializes in extraordinary soft-serve ice cream concoctions? Sign me up.  The magic words were “soft serve.” Although “big gay” is pretty enticing as well.

I may have acquired some high brow and expensive tastes over the years, but I’ll never forget where I cam from: a home that was walking distance from a McDonald’s and a Dairy Queen. My love of ice cream started with that which is extruded and swirled into a cone, chemicals and all. I love it and will always turn my head towards a doorway selling the stuff. So, I knew that I would quickly be making a visit to the Big Gay Ice Cream Shop in the East Village. Once only a summertime ice cream truck, the Big Gays added a 365 days/year bricks and mortar storefront so that we would always know where to find our Salty Pimps, Bea Arthurs and Cococones. Just look for the rainbow.

The repetition that is rampant on the Food Network means that I’ve seen the Salty Pimp (dulce de leche, chocolate dip, salt) cone episode of The Best Thing I Ever Ate about 17 times. Gail Simmons sings its praises. Everyone sings its praises. I mean, you can’t really go wrong with that line up, but being someone who would NEVER order a chocolate dip and who doesn’t like to always jump on the bandwagon, I went in other directions on my two visits. Olive oil and sea salt? Hello! Curried coconut dip? Why not?

The oil and salt was the better of the two. Although they do you a good turn by putting some coconut at the bottom of the cone to prolong the fun. But, within the span of five licks, you’ve pretty much cleaned the cone of coconut. And the curry flavour wasn’t as strong as it could be. The richness of the olive oil was perfect against the creaminess of the ice cream. The only quibble is that this topping requires a dish. Cones and cups are not meant to intersect.

And to be clear, the ice cream itself is not all that different from what you’d get at any Mister Softee across the city. This is honest-to-goodness average soft serve. It’s probably all natural, but who cares. I’ve been eating the chemical-laden good stuff my whole life and look where it’s got me: New York City.

Big Gay Ice Cream Shop
125 East 7th St, New York

I made it! After walking by the line snaking through Madison Square Park numerous times while vacationing in New York the past few years, I finally stopped and got myself in the queue at the original Shake Shack location. The line is as legendary as the food. I thought I made a smart move by going at 8:30 on a warm-ish spring eve instead during the afternoon of a hot spring day. I waited 45 minutes in line and another 10 for my food. My burger and fries were worth the wait, but that line is killer. Be prepared.

As lovely as the weather was and as good as my meal tasted, the best part of my Shake Shack experience was confirming how friendly New Yorkers are. In all my travels, I’d never have said that New Yorkers were unfriendly; I think I just always noticed how direct they can be. Now that I’m living here and my interactions have increased exponentially, I can tell you that the directness is just related to the fact that New Yorkers don’t mess about. There’s no time to. There are places to go and people to see. So, you ask a question, you get an answer. You don’t know where something is, you get directions. You bump into someone, they accept your apology. There’s just none of the back and forth pleasantries with big grins that I’m used to. Which is totally fine. Because the heart and goodness is still there, it’s just a little bit sharp around the edges.

The heart and goodness I experienced at Shake Shack took the form of three lovely young ladies who stood in front of me in line. During the three quarters of an hour, we would chat every now and again. What did they recommend off the menu? Does the line move fast? Yes, it’s my first Shack Shack experience. I’m new to these parts. While sitting under the glow of the lit globes waiting for my buzzer to buzz and alert me to Shackburger heaven, I got an invite to join them at their table. I completely forgot their names, but I had a very enjoyable and memorable meal talking to these friendly New Yorkers. Karma will return their kindness, and I’m sure it will be twice as awesome as a meal at Shake Shack.

Set duck lunch at Momofuku Ssam Bar.

My first week in New York City was a steady diet of riding the train, scouring Craigslist, and viewing apartments. In between, I ate and went to museums. Just like I was on vacation. Don’t tell my wallet. And although I’m here now, living in New York, my hunger and excitement wanted me to eat like time was limited. I gave in. My pants grew tighter. And as expected, I got a great taste for all the wonderful food adventures that lie ahead of me.

Pastrami-cured salmon and scallion cream cheese on pumpernickel at Russ & Daughters.

I made an effort to try a few places that would be more ideal to visit during a weekday: Momofuku Ssam Bar, Russ & Daughters, Saltie, the Doughnut Plant. All worth their salty and sugary calories. I was actually surprised how much I enjoyed my duck lunch. I’m of the mind that David Chang & Co are kind of overexposed and too hyped up. Although a hefty $20 for the two-course set, I left very very happy. The doughnuts? Pure bliss. I am not a doughnut person, but I am now a Doughnut Plant person. I think that having both cake and yeast varieties during a visit is the only way to go. Double your pleasure, double your fun.

Before settling into my own place, I’ve been staying in Williamsburg. The rumours are all true: it’s more hipster than you could ever imagine, and the food (and drink) is some of the best in the boroughs. After returning for a few more visits, I still think that Roberta’s is the best pizza I’ve ever had. I can’t get enough. Just like in Vancouver, hipsters like their coffee. So far, I’ve tried both Blue Bottle and Toby’s Estate. Both are spaces that make you want to linger and sip all day, and both provide you with very high quality joe.

I can't take any more top knots!

The Scuttlebutt at Saltie.

Blueberry pancakes with maple butter at Clinton Street Baking Co.

And on a Sunday with no apartments to see and nothing but time, I decided to brave the wait for a tiny window seat at Clinton Street Baking Co. and finally try their much-discussed pancakes. I went with the classic blueberry and added a side of sugar-cured bacon. The wow factor is the maple butter sauce. On their own, the stack is fine, but it’s the sauce that makes them legendary. And the legend leads to lines. Big ones. But it’s New York, so I just filled the hour-long gap with a $9 manicure.

Tres leches and peanut butter and banana cream doughnuts from the Doughnut Plant.

So, this was just the beginning. And with the smallest apartment kitchen I’ve ever had in my future, the cooking chronicles of Cream might be few and far between. But I’ll still be eating (out) lots. And my camera phone is much improved.

Suggestions?

Easter brunch has become a tradition at our house. Gone are the days of the giant turkey dinner and ham feast. We favour getting the eating out of the way first thing, then stuffing ourselves with chocolate treats for the rest of the day. While my family would be disappointed if I took the stuffed French toast off the menu, I was tempted this year to make MY favourite breakfast of Huevos Rancheros. Alas, I’m going to aim to please the crowds this year, but maybe next year I’ll be self indulgent and make it Mexican Easter. Huevos and tequila champagne cocktails, perhaps?

Luckily, just before Cream made her big move to NYC, I got to cook a thing or two for her in Edmonton. We enjoyed our lazy tea sipping, pajama wearing mornings together, and stuffed ourselves silly so that lunch became a thing of obscurity most days. What better way to start a Saturday morning with your bestie than with a filling breakfast of Huevos Rancheros with fresh salsa, avocado, and sour cream…and a squeeze of lime of course. I could eat it for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Happy chocolate eating, bunny spotting, egg hiding day, no matter what’s on the menu.

Sugar’s Huevos Rancheros (serves 4)

4 corn tortillas
4 eggs
1 can of refried beans, warmed (I like Amy’s Organic Traditional Style)
1/2 cup of shredded cheese (sharp cheddar, jack, or even feta are great)
2 avocadoes, quartered
sour cream
fresh salsa (recipe below)
lime, quartered

For the fresh salsa combine the following:
1/4 cup finely diced onion
2 diced tomatoes
handful of chopped cilantro
clove of crushed garlic
juice of one lemon
squeeze of Sriracha (or more if you like it hot)
salt to taste

Heat oven on broil. Place 4 corn tortillas on a baking sheet. Top with warmed beans. Gently add a slightly undercooked sunny side up fried egg. Top with cheese and place for just a minute of two under the broiler until the cheese is melted.

Top with avocado, fresh salsa, sour cream, and a squeeze of lime.

This is another party that I’m way late for: no-knead bread (and see below: no-knead pizza dough). But I’ve arrived now, and I’m double fisting drinks and dancing on the table until the rooster crows. I get why everyone was talking about it now. It’s easy! It’s good! It makes you feel like a pro!

The easy part is the clincher. While certainly no master baker, I have had the pleasure of making loaves by hand and getting my daily exercise requirement through what seemed like hours of kneading. The result of all that labour was certainly a sight to behold, and I was immensely proud that I had made that soft block of carbohydrates from which a heavenly aroma emanated. But that pride quickly changes to hunger and before you know it, you’re tearing it apart, the butter knife is heavy with salty goodness and… it’s gone. And your pride is just a memory. Until the next day. When your sore wrists and shoulders and back remind you of how much work you put into that block that’s no more.

So, let’s thank Jim Lahey of the Sullivan Street Bakery in New York City for giving us a way to still have pride, still eat fresh bread and yet do it all without any sore wrists or counter tops and floors covered in dusting flour. THANK YOU, JIM. This recipe is all about the, “If you’ve got the time, baby, you’ve got the bread” factor. A day. That’s all you need. Make the dough one night and you’ll have fresh bread for your dinner party the next. This is like a slow cooker method for bread. Set it and forget it.

When it comes out of the oven, you’ll feel no less pride because of the lack of elbow grease. Fresh loaves are things of beauty and should be lovingly caressed in the moments leading up to the first cut. YOU made that. You’re bringing the carbo-love today. Stand tall. Smile big. Feel proud.

In all seriousness, this recipe makes a fabulous and unique loaf of bread. It’s just the kind you want on a platter with meat and cheese or alongside some beef bourguignon leftovers or to make a grilled cheese with. It’s chewy and light, with a crust that’s less crackly than it looks. Make some.

And when you do, think of me heading to the Sullivan Street Bakery in New York City trying to thank Jim in person and ordering one of his famous Pizza Biancas while I wait to do so. ‘Cause big news readers: Cream is moving to the Big Apple! An incredible door has opened for me, and I’m going to walk right through. Get ready for much more documented eating and much less cooking. Hello, delivery.

Jim Lahey/Sullivan Street Bakery No-Knead Bread
Adapted from the Sullivan Street Bakery website

3 cups (430g) flour
1½ cups (345g or 12oz) water
¼ teaspoon (1g) yeast
1¼ teaspoon (8g) salt
olive oil (for coating)
extra flour, wheat bran, or cornmeal (for dusting)

Remove the dough from the bowl and fold once or twice. Or don’t. I found the dough MUCH too sticky to handle and skipped this step and went straight to the cotton towel the second time I made the bread to no ill effect. Let the dough rest 15 minutes in the bowl or on the work surface. Next, shape the dough into ball. Generously coat a cotton (not terry though) towel or large cotton cloth napkin with flour, wheat bran, or cornmeal; place the dough seam side down on the towel and dust with flour. Cover the dough with the cotton towel (or a second one if your first isn’t big enough) and let rise 1-2 hours at room temperature, until more than doubled in size.

Preheat oven to 450-500 degrees Fahrenheit. Place a 6-8 quart pot (Pyrex glass, cast iron or ceramic) in the oven at least 30 minutes prior to baking to preheat. Once the dough has more than doubled in volume, remove the pot from the oven and place the dough in the pot seam side up. Cover with the lid and bake 30 minutes Then remove the lid and bake 15-30 minutes uncovered, until the loaf is nicely browned.

Jim Lahey/Sullivan Street Bakery No-Knead Pizza Dough
Adapted from www.madebyfrances.com via New York Magazine

With the success of the bread behind me, I thought I would check out Jim’s pizza dough as well. Now, many of you may have seen that Bon Appetit just published a pizza dough recipe from him. It is different than this recipe that was published earlier. I shake my head at BA sometimes. A similar thing happened with the Momofuku Crack Pie. The BA version was different than earlier (and still authentic) versions. Why the difference? Who knows, but I’m sticking to versions that appear to be published before sexy BA tried to make them famous.

I’m not sure why I made pizza at home. It pales pales pales in comparison to pizza made in commercial ovens. I will argue with you over this until I lose my breath unless you can show me that your home oven reaches the 800-900 degrees necessary to make a good pie. Making a calzone at home is much better idea, in my opinion. It’s still not the same, but I think the result is much better than a pizza.

Makes 4, 10-inch pies or calzones

3 cups flour, more for dusting and light working of the dough
1/4 tsp. instant yeast
11/2 tsp. salt
11/4 cups water

Mix the flour, yeast, salt and water. Cover with plastic wrap or a non-terry cloth towel. Let the dough sit in a warm room for 12-24 hours. It will have doubled in size.

Plop the dough out onto a floured surface. Fold it over once or twice. Go for it, this dough is much less sticky. Let it rest for 15 minutes.

Divide the dough into 4 balls of equal size. Let the dough balls rise covered with a floured cloth for 2 hours. Once risen, they are ready to be made into pizzas.

Follow my tips on how best to cook a pizza or calzone in a traditional oven here and here.

What to do with leftover squash besides make a soup? That was my predicament. Sure, a butternut soup would be good. Add some crusty bread and a green salad, and you’d have a meal worthy of guests. I should say, a healthy meal worth of guests.

But I would not be having any guests, and I would not be worried about being  healthy. This was the height of a post-Christmas hibernation-staycation, where you don’t get up before noon,  comfy clothes made of cotton are the uniform, and a nightly ritual of catching up on Downton Abbey is the most important act of the day. Healthy was for January 1. So, my predicament really was, what to do with leftover squash to make it less healthy? The grilled cheese was one way, how about dumplings soaked in brown butter for the next? Done.

I know sage is all the rage (or was all the rage?) but if you haven’t had crispy sage, try it. You’ll want it as a topping on everything. The same goes for brown butter. Don’t be afraid if you’re a newbie at making it. It makes your kitchen smell like shortbread. Add little salty clouds of squash heaven and you’ve got the perfect winter plate of comfort. You could add a green salad and some crusty bread and then invite some guests, but you should probably change out of the comfy clothes before you do so.

Butternut Squash Gnudi with Brown Butter and Crispy Sage
Adapted from Mark Bittman
Serves 3.

I just copied what I learned from Mark last year and substituted squash. The one thing I did though was drain my mashed squash. Squash has a lot of moisture, so to get the needed consistency for this dough, you’d likely end up using a lot of flour. This could leave you with leaden little clouds. If you have the time, drain your squash in some cheesecloth over a bowl in the fridge for a few hours. You won’t get a ton of liquid out, but it will help with keeping the gnudi light.
Oh, and I’m calling them gnudi this year. I don’t think Mark is necessarily wrong in calling the ricotta version gnocchi, but my reading and research has lead me to believe that these dumplings are like naked ravioli, gnudi. That is, ravioli filling without the pasta shell. Gnudi, gnocchi, delicious all the same.

Salt
2 cups cooked, mashed squash, preferably drained of excess moisture
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 1/4 cups freshly grated parmesan, plus more for serving
Freshly ground black pepper
3/4 to 1 cup flour
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
10 or more sage leaves

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Combine the squash, eggs and Parmesan in a large bowl, along with some salt and pepper. Add about 1/2 cup flour and stir; add more flour until the mixture forms a very sticky dough. Scoop up a spoonful of dough and boil it to make sure it will hold its shape; if it does not, stir in a bit more flour.

Put the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. When it melts and turns a nutty brown color, add the sage. While it fries, drop the squash mixture by the rounded tablespoon (a cookie scoop comes in handy here) into the boiling water, watching not to overload the pot.

When the gnudi rise to the surface, remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to the skillet. When all the gnudi are done, toss, taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve immediately.

]]> http://creamandsugar.ca/butternut-squash-gnudi-gnocchi-recipe-brown-butter-sage/feed/ 4 http://creamandsugar.ca/grilled-cheese-squash-sandwich-recipe/ http://creamandsugar.ca/grilled-cheese-squash-sandwich-recipe/#comments Wed, 01 Feb 2012 13:43:59 +0000 cream http://creamandsugar.ca/?p=3489

It’s already February. It’s already February, and I haven’t written one post about the cooking I did over the Christmas holidays. If January went by this fast, it’s sure to be Easter in no time. And then summer. And then Thanksgiving. And then Christmas again. If this is aging, I don’t mind so much because the yuckiest month is over. It’s already February!

Having done a lot of cooking for Christmas celebrations, I took it easy when it came to cooking during my quiet Christmas staycation. I didn’t stretch as far as last year and roast some flesh. Instead, I roasted some squash. Slice in half (I had a butternut), place face down on parchment in a 400-degree oven, and about 45 minutes later, you have a lot of roasted gourd to play with. Then, remove the peel and mash by hand or puree it with the help of a blender. Portion it out, refrigerate it or freeze it. You’re good to go. A healthier side dish than potatoes, a suitable mash to add some moisture to your baked goods, and a vitamin-packed, high fibre, low calorie orange veg that will help you balance any overeating damage you did in honour of baby Jesus.

Taking a cue from the many sandwiches I see featured on Serious Eats, I concocted a grilled cheese with some of the mash. The squash’s sweetness added a nice contrast to the saltiness of the cheese, and its texture added great mouth feel. No, this isn’t exactly diet food but it IS delicious.

Grilled Cheese and Squash Sandwich

Everybody usually has their own tricks and preferences for making a tasty grilled cheese. I tend to like mine only with Gruyere, but I had some leftover Fleur d’Aunis from the Christmas cheese plate, so I added it for some extra goo.

I have no measurements, but the basic idea is:

- Preheat your heavy duty frying pan to medium low.
- Butter the outside of two slices of bread.
- Smear some dijon mustard on the inside of one slice of bread, butter the inside of other.
- Spread a few tablespoons of squash on the mustard’d slice, sprinkle some fresh parsley, then load on your cheese. Top with the other slice of bread.
- Place in your pan and be patient. A good grilled cheese is made like a braise: low and slow. Don’t turn up the heat. You’re looking at about five minutes per side to get perfect golden brown bread and cheese that oozes.

Though Edmonton is not often thought of as a dining destination, amidst the clutter of chain restaurants and fast food, Edmonton has some great culinary talents who consistently turn out top notch food, bevvies, and treats. With my computer nerd hubby getting ready to welcome a whole bunch of fellow internet marketing peeps to our fair city for a spring conference, I couldn’t resist obliging his request to share the best of Edmonton eating according to moi. In no particular order. Enjoy.

For  eating…

Handmade ravioli at Corso 32

Corso 32
Ridiculous talent and a most sincere love for food, real Italian food, collide at Corso 32 in the inspired hands of chef Daniel Costa. Don’t plan on “showing up” at the door of this popular downtown restaurant hoping for a table. Book well ahead and have your planning rewarded with some of the most perfect food you’ll eat in any city. Some favourites on the ever changing menu include the arancini, house made goat ricotta crostini, whatever today’s ravioli is, and the braised polpette aka meatballs. The cocktail and wine list is notable, too.

Culina Family of Restaurants
Be it lunch at Culina Muttart, or a dinner or weekend brunch at Culina Mill Creek, the Culina family of restaurants never disappoints. With a menu loaded with ethnic inspired comfort food, a focus on local fresh ingredients, and the best cocktail list in the city, there is something for everyone. The bacon and eggs at brunch cannot be beat, and the dinner menu has me ordering goodies like the pork and cheese tortillas, the local chorizo sausage hotpot, and the phyllo wrapped goat cheese, over and over again. And happily so. Um, did I mention the cocktails?

Red Ox Inn
I am ashamed that this is the first time that I have mentioned my love for Red Ox on Cream and Sugar. I think I’ve just been so busy gobbling up their food that taking pictures and writing went astray. Not only is their self proclaimed “serious food in a casual room” outstanding, but both the owners and the front of house staff are about the most gracious people you’ll ever meet. I must confess that I’ve yet to sample the newly revamped menu, but should some old favourites resurface on the ever changing menu, the warm goat cheese salad with bacon and cranberry vinagrette, and the rack of lamb with polenta and cassoulet are not to be missed. Reservations are recommended at this casual fine dining gem nestled just above the river valley.

Carnitas at Tres Carnales

Tres Carnales
These three guys have brought authentic Mexican tacos to the prairies, and plenty of charm to keep the vibe of their casual downtown taqueria humming. Make hard decisions from the mouthwatering menu, order at the counter, and watch your food appear in no time flat. Lunch or dinner, grab a seat at the big communal table and get ready to wolf down a plate (or two!) of Tres Carnales tacos. And don’t forget to order some guacamole y totpos. Salty chips, perfectly seasoned, citrus-ed, fresh guacamole to devour as you wait for the main attraction. The rajas con crema quesidilla and the carnitas tacos are my go-to menu items.

Viphalay
For proper Thai curry and spicy basil chicken, look no further than Viphalay. Hands down the best authentic Thai and Laos food in the city. Now with two downtown locations you can head to the dodgy edge of little Italy, or the quieter tree lined street just south of Jasper Avenue to get your fix. The red curry with bamboo, papaya salad, and penang are my favourites. And for dessert the roti rolls, fresh warm roti smothered in condensed milk and sugar, are my favourite dessert in the whole city.

Acajutla
I love pupusas. If you’ve had one before, you know what I mean. If you haven’t, now’s the time to change that. Acajutla is a little family run El Salvadorean and Mexican restaurant serving up the best little masa enveloped meat, bean, and cheese bundles in town. The decor is less than fancy and the restaurant is located in an “edge of downtown” neighbourhood that has what we’ll call “flavour”, but it’s worth the journey. The mixed pupusas, chicken enchiladas, and lime margaritas on the rocks are stars. Don’t be put off by the ridiculous website that spews latin beats to entice you. What they lack in design savvy and computer know how, they make up for in deliciousness, AND it’s cheap and cheerful!

Tony’s Pizza Palace
Quite simply the best thin crust pizza in the city. Mario’s Special adorned with capicollo, proscuitto, capers, and artichokes is THE one.

Sushi Wasbi
Located in an unassuming little strip mall in South Edmonton’s Lendrum neighbourhood, this small Japanese owned and run sushi house is tops. Rice is always perfectly flavoured, the right amount of sticky, and topped with the freshest of fish. Reservations are recommended, as is the negitoro maki, the agedashi tofu, and the gomae.

The Golden Rice Bowl
This efficient and busy Chinese restaurant is the place that much of the local Asian community chooses for celebrations, special occasions, and family meals, and for good reason. The food is top notch, the room is bustling, the menu is extensive, and the service is quick. Of course many of the most delicious things are not on the menu. I use the “point at other people’s food” method of ordering when something yummy looking comes out. My favourites include the Peking duck (which must be pre-ordered), prawn and scallop nest, house special beef tenderloin with cashew nuts (not on the menu), crispy garlic chicken, garlic pea greens, and Cantonese chow mein.

And now for some treats and bevvies…

Lemon tart at Dauphine Bakery and Bistro

Dauphine Bakery and Bistro
Located on the lovely and revitalized 104th Street downtown, in a bright vaulted basement space in the Armstrong heritage building, Dauphine Bakery and Bistro (formerly known as The Queen of Tarts) turns out some of the best artisan breads, jams, and of course tarts, in the city. The lemon curd tart is worth the trip alone. Perfectly balanced, tart and sweet, it’s citrus perfection. Go for treats, or enjoy a simple French inspired bistro lunch in their charmingly simple, yet sophisticated space.

Da Cappo Caffe
Serving the best freshly made artisan gelato in the city, Da Cappo Caffe is the place to go for creamy pistachio, dulce di latte, and chile chocolate frozen goodness. The coffee is good, too.

Transcend Coffee
This is the cult coffee house in town. Bean heads flock from all over the city to sample Transcend’s serious in house roasts from around the globe. If you end up hooked, a coffee subscription that will deliver the best beans of the month to your door is an easy at home fix.

Eva Sweet Waffles
If you can find one of the happy vans, Eva Sweet waffles are worth seeking out. These perfectly sweet Liege waffles are a thing of beauty, and luckily are also served at a number of cafes around town.

Treats from Duchess Bake Shoppe

Duchess Bake Shoppe
Drawing the masses to 124th Street for perfectly executed Parisian macarons, in flavours like rose, pistachio, and salted caramel, Duchess is a sweet treat for proper French pastries and treats. Perfect butter croissants, gorgeous tarts and cakes, sour cherry pie, lovely house blended teas, fresh marshmallows, and simply delicious sandwiches, you will find plenty of ways to satisfy any craving here. Get in line and prepare to make hard decisions with so many gorgeous things peering back at you through the pretty glass case.

Sugar Bowl
With the best beer list in the city, from Belgian to Quebecois selections, this is the place to go for a frosty mug. Nestled in a casual bustling space just over the High Level bridge on the edge of the University of Alberta campus, this popular spot is packed from morning to night drawing crowds not only for its lagers and witbiers, but for its great food and famously perfect cinnamon buns.

La Poutine
Because lord knows after you drink all that beer, you’ll need some top notch poutine. Fries, squeaky curds, gravy. Need I say more?

BiBO
From the Culina family of restaurants, my favourite tiny little spot to sit on a bench and drink a great glass of wine is BiBO. Nestled two doors down from Culina Mill Creek, this petite candle lit space is always pumping out an eclectic mix of moody music and filling glasses with beautiful wines and perfect recommendations.

The Confederation Lounge at the Hotel MacDonald
And lastly, in honour of great Edmonton institutions, there is something so lovely about walking through the doors of the hotel MacDonald and strolling into the grand but den like Confederation lounge for something on the rocks, or in a big wine glass, or perhaps in the form of a steaming boozy blueberry tea. And when warm weather cooperates, it has quite simply the best patio for a “drink with a view” in the city.

Here’s a map!

View Best of Edmonton Dining, Snacking, and Drinking in a larger map

Stop reading now if you’re on some crazy New Year cleanse or avoiding carbs, sugar, fat and all things fun. Just stop reading because the next sentence is going to tempt you. I’ve come across one of the best cookies I’ve ever made or eaten in all my 32 years. Please meet the Gooey Butter Cookie.

I am a cookie dough girl. I love tracing my tongue along the beaters, scraping my finger across the spoon and pinching off little morsels from oddly shaped unbaked cookies. I remember eating more refrigerated English Bay cookie dough than English Bay cookies as a teenager. The next person to open the tub would come upon finger tracks that revealed many a chocolate chip, but not enough dough to surround it. Pure, unadorned dough of sugar, fat, flour and eggs is all I wanted. No nuts or chips or raisins or whatever. I love the dough. And that is what these cookies taste like. Dough dough dough.

But they’re fully cooked, of course, and the high amount of butter and sugar means they are reminiscent of shortbread. But then the cream cheese gives a toothsomeness that shortbread never has. Oh, and then there’s the vanilla seeds and the vanilla extract that add both a heavenly perfume and flavour. And how could I forget that you’re to eat them cold? Yes, cold. Just like cookie dough from the fridge. As I’ve suggested before, cold cookies are a thrill worth seeking out.

I am sorry that I had to share these with you post-holidays. As I made them only two days before Christmas, there would have been little time for you to shop for and make them—because you really must shop for and make them—and then whoooooosh, January. It’s the time to work off other people’s cookies so that you can now try these.

Gooey Butter Cookies
adapted from Lottie + Doof

I got about two dozen of the size shown and another dozen and a half wee ones.

2 1/4 cups all purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
250 g cream cheese
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1/4 vanilla bean, scraped
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Icing sugar for rolling and dusting

Stir together the flour, baking powder, and salt.  Set aside.  With your hands, with a hand-held mixer or in the bowl of an electric mixer with the paddle attachment, cream the cream cheese, butter, vanilla bean seeds, and sugar together until fluffy.  Add the egg and vanilla extract.

Incorporate the flour mixture.  Chill for at least 30 minutes.  Preheat your oven to 325 degrees. Half fill a small bowl with icing sugar. When the dough is chilled enough to be formed, scoop balls that are about 1-2 tablespoons (I used a cookie scoop over an inch in diameter) and toss in the icing sugar.  Place on a baking sheet, lined with parchment, a couple of inches apart.  Bake until they spread and puff slightly, about 12-16 minutes.  (In my oven they were ready at 12 minutes.) They will be really soft in the center.  If they start to brown, they’ve gone too far.  Cool to room temperature.

It is suggested that at this point you can refrigerate them on the tray because as the cream cheese and butter get cold, they’re easier to pick up. It is a good tip.  These cookies are best served straight out of the fridge.

These will keep for up to a week in the fridge or can be frozen for longer (and then thawed in fridge).

It took five years and four trips to New York City for me to finally find the time to make it up to the Upper West Side to visit the famous Levain Bakery. There are few “best of” type shows on the Food Network or “best of” NYC lists that don’t mention how amazing and how unique these seemingly ordinary cookies are. The recipe is a secret, of course, and so the frenzy only grows for these softball-sized treasures.

The famous Levain Bakery chocolate chip walnut cookie.

Why do people flock to this shoebox of a bakery opened by two friends who aren’t even trained pastry chefs? No cookie I’ve ever tasted has been able to achieve the holy grail of cookie texture the way Levain does: a perfect crisp crust that protects a gooey, chewy middle. When I broke apart my cookie to see if it was true, it was a moment of shock and awe. How did they do this? How can I be eating this entire giant cookie? What will I do without access to the best cookie I’ve ever eaten, hands down?!?!

I do the next best thing. I scour the Internet for a copycat recipe and make do. As you can see, my copycats look nothing like the original. So…yeah, not much of a copycat in the looks department. The taste? Also not the same. BUT, they were pretty darn alright for a chocolate chip cookie. They did have a little of the crisp outside, gooey inside thing going on but nowhere near the perfect crust that Levain achieves. I must also say that I think I preferred Nigella’s cookies. And now I’m really wanting to try to make the also famous New York Times ultimate chocolate chip cookie. In time, in time.

Within the same few days, I had the pleasure of trying the excellent chocolate chip cookies of both Balthazar and Chikalicious, and Levain was definitely the best. (Have I told you yet that it was the best cookie I’ve ever eaten?) So, if you ever find yourself in New York City, don’t be silly and wait like I did. GO. Yes, there’s nothing really around to see except the Museum of Natural History and The Dakota, but it’s worth the trip.  You could also spend a fortune ordering them online, but that wouldn’t be as much fun, now, would it?

Copycat Levain Bakery Chocolate Chip Cookies
Adapted from Parsley, Sage, Dessert and Line Drives

I halved the recipe below and got four large (roughly a half cup each) and three medium-sized cookies. I also used half dark chocolate and half milk chocolate, which I got by chopping up chocolate bars, not chocolate chips. You might notice that there is no vanilla in this recipe. Strange, but true. I also have learned from cookie-powers-that-be that you should let your dough rest so that the ingredients fully integrate. So, I did that.

1 cups cold and cubed unsalted butter
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1  1/2 cups brown sugar
2 eggs
2 3/4 to 3 1/4 cups all purpose flour
1 teaspoon table or fine sea salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/4 tsp baking soda
2 cups good quality semisweet chocolate chips or chunks

In bowl of electric mixer fitted with paddle, cream together butter and sugars until well blended and fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time and beat until well incorporated. (I did this in a food processor, you could also do by hand.)
Add flour, salt, baking soda, baking powder, and cornstarch, and mix until just combined. Gently fold in chocolate. Transfer dough to clean work surface and gently mix dough by hand to ensure even distribution of ingredients. Divide into 10-12 equal portions on a parchment-lined plate or cutting board. Cover with plastic wrap and put in fridge for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place each on sheet pan lined with parchment paper and flatten slightly (a step I forgot). Bake in the preheated oven 15-20 minutes depending on how gooey and raw-ish you like the interior, until very lightly browned, taking care not to overbake. Let cool on rack and store what you don’t immediately eat in an airtight container.

These are best eaten on the day they are made. To freshen them at a later time, give them a quick nuke in the microwave for 5-10 seconds or a few minutes in a warm oven.