Today’s Special:  Totto Spicy Ramen, Totto Ramen, New York

So you know that ramen is a big deal, right? Especially here in New York. Like, almost as big a deal as pizza. Wellllll maybe at this exact culinary moment in time, perhaps bigger than pizza. With ramen burgers causing crazy lines and ramen master Ivan Orkin opening up some slurp shops, everyone wants broth-stained shirts.

Even me. It’s taken a while, but I’m into it. Especially the styles with lighter broths. Or without any broth! (Future post in the works…) I don’t shy away from fat (More butter, please?), but I do shy away from tonkotsu style ramen, which is probably the most popular. Tonkotsu broth is known for its creamy richness; richness that can only come when you simmer bones for a long long time, and they render out all their fatty, collagen, gelatinous goodness. For me, it’s too much, but for the vast majority of ramen lovers, it’s heaven.

Transcendent ramen for me has been the rich chicken broth of Totto Ramen. The bird just produces a slightly leaner broth than the pig, and I’m down with that. And I like mine spicy, with the additions of a nitamago egg, some corn, and seasoned avocado. You can’t see the springy noodles in this shot, but believe me, they are there, soaking up the magical broth and waiting for me to dig around and lift so that I can slurp, slurp, slurp. Just talk to my silk blouse. She’s not very happy.

Oh, and for those of you who only know ramen from instant packages? Get off that bus and try to find the real thing!

Oh oh:  Cream and Sugar turns five today! FIVE. Thank you for reading.

Totto Ramen
366 West 52nd St or 464 West 51st St, New York

Today’s Special: Pea, burrata, and mint crostini, Gjelina, Los Angeles

Like everyone else and their brother, I’m really ready for spring to arrive. I know that March is never an enjoyable month (spring forward, winter’s strong grip, the Ides), but this March seems particularly awful. Perhaps it’s because this year is the first time I’ve had to deal with the doldrums wholeheartedly. Last year, I was overcome with excitement and nerves and stress with my big move to U.S. The year before that, I was planning a trip to Turkey. And the year before that, I was still in awe of my first winter (in Vancouver) without snow on the ground or Arctic temperatures. Vancouver also always has green grass, so even when you haven’t seen the sun for (what feels like) months, the green of Vancouver can be powerful. Here in New York, it’s a lot of… grey. The concrete jungle of the Big Apple loses a bit of its sparkle in the winter, and by March we are gagging for the green and sun and mild weather of a new season.

The past few weeks I’ve been looking at this picture of a dish I had in Los Angeles last month and trying to harness all my mental power toward forcing the green to sprout. The sweet peas and pea tendrils, the luscious burrata, and the pop of mint have you daydreaming about running barefoot in a meadow wearing some sort of loose cotton ensemble. Like a laundry detergent commercial. You can’t help but feel the sun on your face and smell all the buds in bloom. Add that you partake of these crostini in the dreamy beachy hood of Venice and your daydream is upgraded to a spread in a swank fashion or lifestyle magazine.

And one of my favourite things about this plate of spring? I don’t have to pop an antihistamine to enjoy it.

Gjelina
1429 Abbot Kinney Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA

From Sam Sifton’s review of Roberta’s last year, I knew that Chef Carlo Mirarchi did a tasting menu a few nights a week, and that it was supposed to be excellent. But knowing that the wait list was something like six months long, I never gave it much thought. Then came news that the tasting menu would be featured in a completely new space, Blanca, care of Sam’s profile. And then Andrew Knowlton sang its praises too. He is The Foodist for Bon Appetit  magazine, and the writer who presented BA’s top 10 new restaurants of the year. Andrew Knowlton also lives in my ‘hood. I’ll trust a guy in the same zip code, but I’ll love a guy who gives the number two spot to a Roberta’s offshoot. The itch began.

And it soon stopped. An upcoming visitor and I decided to commit to getting up early on a Saturday and sitting on the phone indefinitely to try and make a reservation. After pressing redial too many times to count (as well as 53 minutes), I got an actual person on the other line and not an answering machine. She had free spaces for our desired date. I had my choice of seating time. We secured a reservation. What happens next?

Well, no pictures. We were politely asked to refrain from taking any pictures so as not to spoil the surprise for any future guests (you can find some if you must from early day spoil sports, however). My phone remained in my purse, and I had no paper and pencil. Roughly 30 courses flowed forth over almost four hours, and they all strive to remain in my mind as extraordinary epicurean memories. New flavours, old flavours. Textures that were comforting, challenging, and unexpected. Seasoning that asserted itself. My palate has matured to a point where I can appreciate just how important a few grains of sea salt can be or how just how it is that a one-bite course can exceed a plate full of “good enough.”

It’s hard to put into words just how much I enjoyed my Blanca experience. The food, the atmosphere, the warm yet reserved service, the records playing in the background, the beverage pairing. The beverage pairing! God, each glass was amazing and unique.

Perhaps the best way for me to sum up my experience comes from a friend. He told me that maybe I moved to New York to have the best meal of my life.

This could be very true.

Blanca
261 Moore Street, Brooklyn 

Today’s Special:  Caprese sandwich, Sullivan Street Bakery (Chelsea location), New York

Forgive me. I forgot about this sandwich. I came across the photo and cursed myself for not posting about it at the height of summer, at the height of tomatoes. I don’t even know if the Sullivan Street Bakery is still making this sandwich at this time of year. I can pretty much guarantee, however, that whatever kind of sandwiches they’re making, you’re going to love them.

As a big fan of Jim Lahey and his no-knead bread method, I made sure that the SSB was on my list of places to visit. But, with the original location in Hell’s Kitchen and the second in Chelsea, I never found myself in the neighbourhood (I’m not a West side kind of girl), and a weekend trek was just too much of a trek. Then came Summer Fridays at work. By working extra each day, I could get every second Friday afternoon off.  I could hardly say no. I promised myself I wouldn’t spend that time cleaning house or doing laundry. On one hot summer Friday, I made a list of Chelsea galleries to visit and a beeline for the Chelsea SSB.

The sandwich screams “fresh!” Fresh pizza bianca, fresh heirloom tomatoes, fresh basil, fresh mozzarella. All brought together with some grassy slips of olive oil. The cheese was so fresh that I had a puddle of milky whey gracing my plate from the pressure that my hands brought while eating. Oh, and there was a sprinkling of sea salt. My perfect bite(s) came when my  teeth cut through a juicy tomato, then the creamy cheese, then the crack of a salt crystal.  More, please.

Sullivan Street Bakery 236 9th Avenue, New York

Cheese

Cubicle life is not something you can really avoid anymore. Before I was ever a full-time employee, I thought that the world depicted in The Office, Dilbert, and Office Space was hyperbole of the mundane. Not so much. It really is the most peculiar thing to be surrounded by people you cannot see, but of course, can clearly hear. The separation-yet-not gives both a false sense of separation and closeness. Simultaneously building and breaking collegiality. The ongoing desire for an office is not to get away from people, it’s to get away from the cubicle existence. Getting an office gives you a chance to break free, however closed off you may then end up being.

The curve ball that I’ve been thrown for the past three out of four jobs is sharing a space, either offices or a cubicle—which despite the confusion I assume is written all over your face, is unfortunately possible. For all the cursing I may do about bad luck that comes my way, I will never stop thanking the stars above for giving me the best office and cubicle mates I could ever ask for. Kind, thoughtful, intelligent, funny. Each has been a person I will never forget and will certainly a lifelong friend. Many a workday doldrum has been saved by turning to my neighbor and asking/bugging them about their day/evening/weekend/lunch. I love being solo in an office, but sharing a space is a close second.

Ham

I almost always pack my lunch (good for saving money and the waistline), but going out is of course a nice treat. My office location in Midtown Manhattan makes it pretty easy to pack a lunch because the dining options are so dismal. My office mate reminded me, however, that a short jaunt on the subway could yield culinary excitement. And how happy was I that he suggested one day that we make our way to No. 7 Sub, a place I was interested in trying.

Subs in hand, we parked ourselves in Madison Square Park and shared the Cheese (cheese, broccoli sauce, pickled red onions, fried chickpeas, and mayo) and Ham (pickled blueberries, pickled red onions, cheese, ham, potato chips, and mayo). I preferred the Cheese, he preferred the Ham. But overall, we were not in love with any of it—for a place that specializes in subs and only makes a few of them, they could avoid repeating ingredients for a bit more creativity and be much less reliant on mayo.

But, whatevs. I have a new friend. End of story.

No. 7 Sub
1188 Broadway (Ace Hotel), New York

Yes, another category. We likes to keep it interesting here at Cream and Sugar. I probably should have created this category, Solo in the City, years ago to describe my travel dining. But we have other ways to describe our travel dining.  So yeah, a new addition to describe a very underrated mode of eating: by yourself. Out. Over the past few years, I have come to very much enjoy eating out by myself, and I was excited about the ease with which I would be able to do so here in New York.

It hasn’t always been enjoyable. Learning the skill while travelling, I’ve had uncomfortable conversations with servers and overheard unfortunate comments about my “sad” situation from nearby diners in a number of faraway places. But, a thick skin can come quickly once you shed your self-consciousness and realize that the problem with solo dining is not with you, but everyone else. Their level of discomfort with not knowing how to process your level of comfort is about their self-consciousness, so feel free to lose your own. Some reading material is always good to have on hand, but if you get lucky and sit at the bar or outdoors, the people watching or casual conversation with the bartender or casual conversation with your neighbour can serve as welcome distractions.

Nicli Antica awakened a deep love for pizza, and since being here, I can’t quell my craving. For those who’ve known me since I was little, I’m not quite sure what’s funnier: that I love pizza (I used to hate it) or that I have a food blog (can’t deny I’m still a picky eater). I’m having a lot of fun trying out New York’s best. I think my heart belongs to Roberta’s, but Paulie Gee’s finished strong, Motorino is a solid choice, and I still have to make trips to Co, Franny’s, and Michael White’s new-new venture, Nicoletta. I don’t remember Lucali enough, so shucks darn, I should probably go back. I sought out Keste for a traditional Neapolitan pie and was well-rewarded. The Filetti di Pomodoro was practically a white pie. It had no sauce, just buffalo mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, basil, and olive oil. Although I think a Margherita is a good test for the quality of a true Italian pizza, I’m partial to the white pies, mostly because they’re usually all about the cheese. I would happily come back to Keste for more pizza, as the crust was spot on (chewy and flavourful) and the toppings were of a high quality and in just right the proportions.

But I would come back with friends. As a solo dining spot, it wasn’t the best. There was no bar, and it’s location in the busy West Village means it’s a bit of a hot spot with couples and groups. My impression was that solo diners were a bit of a rarity. That being said, my experience was not sullied. I got a table quickly and the service was warm.

I have to go back because I’m totally intrigued by this “racchetta” pizza. All I can think about is ripping off that handle of cheese. Stuffed crust for foodies.

Keste Pizza & Vino
271 Bleecker Street, New York 

Today’s special: Duck rillettes and egg salad crostini, Colonie, Brooklyn

I chose to live in the Carroll Gardens/Cobble Hill area of Brooklyn because it was an area that became familiar and dear to my heart after a number of visits to friends who lived in that ‘hood. The brownstones, the trees, the mix of young people, families, and lifers, whose families have lived in the area for generations. Oh, and the restaurants. Williamsburg is tops for Brooklyn trendy, but my neighbourhood always ends up just plain tops. Reviews of places always mention the subway trip from the city being worth it. And hardly a trip it is. It may be twenty minutes for Manhattanites to get to some of the neighbourhood haunts, but for me? A five to ten minute walk. So so dangerous to the waistline and the pocketbook.

Ten minutes to Colonie on Atlantic Avenue from my apartment. And that’s considered far by New Yorker standards. Although I generally hate small plate eating, you can manage it very well at Colonie, especially if there’s only two of you. (They have big plates too, but the small ones and the salads sounded so much more interesting.) The uniquely topped and well-sized crostini definitely help you make the small become satisfying. Although I had read that the ricotta crostini were outstanding, the server’s sell on the egg salad with bone marrow and the duck rillettes with rhubarb meant that the ricotta could wait.  My affinity for duck won out over my aversion to pasty meat, and I was thankfully rewarded with rillettes that looked just a bit manhandled by a fork. The sour rhubarb paired well with the rich meat. The egg salad was was more like extra creamy scrambled eggs, with the bone marrow and veal jus acting like dollops of melted butter: salty and rich. A gold star to whoever chose and toasted the bread. It was crispy enough to hold the weight of the toppings and offer textural contrast, yet it was still chewy enough not to shatter during a bite (no knife and fork for crostini!).

Each of the other dishes I tried easily could receive its own post as well.
So, so dangerous.

Colonie
127 Atlantic Avenue, Brooklyn 

Today’s Special: Whisky bread, Gwynett St

The reservation stars aligned on Saturday. OpenTable presented me with a table for two during prime time at East Williamsburg hot spot Gwynett St. Since opening last fall, the number of positive write ups have been been steadily climbing, with a number of them being published during the last few weeks. My friend and I had a wonderful dinner, letting our hunger guide us to our fair share of menu items, including a maitake mushroom covered in ribbons of salty lardo and a coconut panna cotta touched by all that’s fun and inspiring in molecular gastronomy. The ball got rolling with their baked-to-order whisky bread. With the texture of a biscuit and the aroma of a saloon—in the best possible way—I fell head over heels for this little loaf. The bread could have been cooked a bit longer to achieve a greater contrast between spongy middle and golden crust, but that’s just a quibble. The texture keeps you from filling up on this bread, which has a benefit beyond room for the rest of your meal: leftovers. Toasted and slathered with butter the next morning had me moaning with pleasure and looking to my calendar for an appropriate date to go back for more.

Gwynett St
312 Graham Ave, Williamsburg, New York

The list that details how we will pack our tummies while adventuring away from home can be as essential as the one that reminds us to pack our toothbrush. Here are some post-mortem thoughts on our travels that may be useful to you one day.

I’m not sure if I can be called a New Yorker yet, but having been here a week+ means that I’m slowly losing that feeling that I have another home to return to. Vancouver is previous, the Big Apple is next. I still can’t wrap my brain around it. If this is in fact some crazy dream, I’m getting my fill of some fantastic NYC food so that if I’m pinched, I’ll at least have some extra padding so it doesn’t hurt as much. And as wonderful as it is to be and eat here, I cannot forget all that Vancouver offered me and can offer you if you have a chance to visit. Thus, I’ll pass on my list of favourites in the form of a Packing List. As always with lists like these, my Vancouver eating was by no means comprehensive. I mean, I never ate Chinese food in Richmond, had a Japadog or got my fingers sticky with a Honey’s doughnut. Shoot me. Most of these I’ve written about before, so I won’t go into great detail. This is my list of familiar and much loved, and in time, I’m sure, much missed.

La Quercia

Although this list is not in any particular order, La Quercia will always be my favourite and first choice in Vancouver. The well-executed and comforting Italian menu, the impeccable and warm service, the relaxed ambiance… I was always happy when I stepped through the door. I highly recommend going the alla familiglia dining route when there, but I have also done à la carte with no complaints. I just think it’s much more fun to let the chef decide. Every course then becomes a surprise. And while I usually don’t like surprises, I crave the ones from La Quercia. Agnolotti di Guido, Spaghetti all’Amatriciana, Vitello Tonnato. Be still my heart. Reservations are usually quite hard to get, so if you need a quick fix, check out their daytime affair La Ghianda across the street. I’m very very sad to have left before being able to try the wine bar they are opening next door, L’Ufficio. Tell me all about it when you go.

(Cream and Sugar post 1, 2, 3, 4)

Nook

I always describe Nook as a French bistro that serves Italian food. It’s a tight, loud place in the heart of the West End that you visit for a nice glass of wine and above average bowl of pasta or thin-crust pizza. Cuisine that’s so overdone and so often overly boring. Not so at Nook. True to Italian cuisine, the preparation is kept simple, and the ingredients are always of the highest quality. Nook was the first place where I tried burrata cheese, and so I don’t know how I will ever repay that kindness because I’m now burrata crazy. Being a true neighbourhood place, the staff make a great effort to be friendly and remember your patronage. A no-brainer choice on a Friday night when you don’t want to cook.

Nicli Antica Pizzeria

Nicli was the first to bring true Napoletana-style pizza to Vancouver, and I think that they deserve the top spot after the wave of imitators that came after. Not to say that the others aren’t good, but my vote will always go to Nicli. Yes, the waits can be long, and it’s not the type of pizza you can take out, but that chewy, charred crust is hard to forget. I’ve always really liked the Bianca, but with this style, you can never go wrong with the classic Margherita. And $5/glass house wine? Yes, please.

(Cream and Sugar post)

Peaceful

So, I don’t know if I ever told you, but I don’t really like Chinese food. I think it’s because I’ve never had good Chinese food. One bad dim sum outing over 10 years ago means I’ve never been back, and memories of pineapple chicken balls, day-glo orange sauce and over seasoned fried rice from mall food courts equals an acquired aversion for everything else. But then I finally tried Peaceful Restaurant. I knew that it was a favourite for foodies in the know and had been featured on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives, but it took me a long time to finally get my act together and make plans to eat there. The tragedy is that I only got to do it once. Dan Dan noodles, spicy green beans, beef roll and cumin beef sesame flatbread. These four dishes rocked my world and made a crack for Chinese food love to creep in. Again, tragedy that I’m no longer in Vancouver to blow it wide open. New York will have to do.

Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie

Because Bao Bei isn’t “authentic” Chinese food, I never really viewed it through my “I don’t like Chinese food” glasses, but it did get my feet wet. I knew it was a trendy place serving a menu inspired by places like Peaceful. And yes, the prices are much higher than “traditional” Chinese restaurants, and the dishes nowhere near the same. Complaining about these things is missing the point. Bao Bei isn’t trying to be Peaceful. It’s a gem of a restaurant that offers a unique experience. The food tastes good, the room looks amazing, the cocktails are fantastic, the service always good. I’ll pay for that again and again.

Maenam

Ugh. Thai food is so good, but it’s so hard to find places that do it well and are worth the cost. I find it appalling that curries that amount to little more than coconut milk and sugar equal $18 a bowl. Red, yellow, green that all taste the same; pad thai clearly made with ketchup. So sad. Your frown gets turned upside down at Maenam. Palpable spice, fresh herbs, quality meats and fish, wine pairings, fancy cocktails—contemporary Thai food that gets you excited and makes you forget to order by colour.

(Cream and Sugar post)

Vij’s/Rangoli

If you only had one meal in Vancouver, it should be within the empire of Vikram Vij. While La Quercia holds a special place in my heart, Vij’s and Rangoli are  in a class of their own. If you have the time and money, do it up big at Vij’s. If you don’t, go to Rangoli. They are different dining experiences, but the quality of food is the same: amazeballs. All the praise you’ve heard from everybody else is completely true.

(Cream and Sugar post 1, 2)

Cafe Medina

Cafe Medina was my favourite place for brunch. The wait can be long on a weekend, but you get yourself a lavendar latte in a to-go cup and natter away with your friends. Nowhere near diner style with its inventive egg dishes, Liege waffles, and creative coffee concoctions, Medina is the place to go when you remembered to put make up on after you rolled out of bed late on a Sunday. Not stuffy, but certainly not greasy. The perfect place to start or end a date…!

(Cream and Sugar post 1, 2)

Kingyo/Suika

You can’t visit Vancouver without trying an izakaya, and local favourites are the Hapa and Guu chains. My first try was at Kingyo, and I felt it was never matched by others. That is, of course, until they opened up their sister restaurant Suika. Less corporate than Hapa and more charming than Guu, Kingyo and Suika offer fun tapas-style plates that do their job of being the perfect complement to an alcoholic bevvie. There’s usually something for everyone and because of the small plate style, everyone can try what they want. The fish was always incredibly fresh and the deep fried items always worth their calories.

(Cream and Sugar post)

Hawksworth

One of my farewell dinners was in the Hawksworth dining room, and it was truly a special night. Yes, it’s a fancy and expensive restaurant where the server will place the napkin on your lap, but there is no pretense or attitude. I knew this going in because I’d had cocktails in the lounge a number of times and never was disappointed. The food, ambiance and service is worth all the recent hype. The beef short rib appetizer is definitely worth getting, as is the Hotel Georgia cocktail. Go all out and get an appetizer, entree and dessert. Portions are appropriate for splurging. (But, I think you should always eat a “well-rounded” meal!)

Aphrodite’s

Aphrodite’s is overpriced and a pain to get to in deep Kitsilano/Point Grey, but it has the best pie in the city. And I’m a big sucker for pie. Raspberry-rhubarb, apple-blackberry, pumpkin and chocolate-banana cream all made me weak at the knees. I stopped caring about the price per slice because they were too good. AND they make gluten-free pie. Aphrodite’s is also a great place to go when you feel like something homey and healthy like soup and a salad. The food is organic so yeah, I guess, that’s why it’s not that easy on the wallet. Just make sure you have a piece of pie. The happy coma afterward always made me forget the bill.

Finch’s Tea House

Finch’s is the epitome of charm and the place to go for simple, beautiful sandwiches. I say “beautiful” because they are always picture perfect; the fillings are placed just so, and the butcher paper they’re served on is the perfect backdrop. I am a fan of the ones made with the blue brie. Their sandwiches are the type you can easily make at home, but always forget to, so a visit here with a paper and a cup of tea, sitting on what could be your grandmother’s furniture, leaves a strong impression. The perfect place to go if you have a weekday off.

(Cream and Sugar post)

Shiro

Sushi! As ubiquitous as coffee in Vancouver. You can’t walk five feet in Vancouver without coming across a sushi place, and you are hard-pressed to find a Vancouverite who doesn’t crave sushi all the time. At the ready and cheap don’t mean awesome, though. I’ve always been shocked at the low standards Vancouverites will accept when it comes to sushi. You have to spend some time wading through a lot of crap to find the good stuff. I never got to go to Tojo’s, but I did have delicious sushi that was extremely affordable. My favourite of what I did try was Shiro, with Ajisai being a close second.  I liked that it was always full of Japanese people, and I liked that only wild salmon was used at a price cheaper than a lot of places charge for farmed. P.S. Lunch Set G is a crazy-good deal if you are a fan of pork katsu-don.

A big thanks to all these restaurants for such fantastic food memories. And a big smooch to all my friends who shared these experiences with me. I feel like I might have used “unique experience” one too many times. But what can I say? They all ARE unique experiences. Go. Enjoy. Get full. Walk it all off along the sea wall.

Today’s Special: Sweet and sour eggplant, Ensemble
I know I’m not alone when I say that Dale was not my favourite contestant on Top Chef Canada. My Alberta roots were fond of Connie and my Eastern sensibilities bet on Rob to win. But, Dale won, and we all moved on. Dale moved on by opening up the restaurant Ensemble, and word has it, he’s got a sports bar in the works (where his winnings are going?). My lack of love for him meant it’s taken me a while to give him a chance and try a restaurant that people seem to be liking. The room and service are much less stuffy than I expected and despite the care and artistry that goes into the food, Ensemble has a strong neighbourhood-haunt vibe. Hooray! There is no better place than the West End for neighbourhood-ness. In addition to some fancy cocktails worth their price tag, I had the winning pulled pork and the precious pavlova, and both were delicious enough to leave me wanting a repeat visit. The star of the show though was the sweet and sour eggplant, recently and rightly listed as one of the best things to eat in Vancouver. Almost too pretty to eat, this dish will erase all memories of any watery or rubbery eggplant you’ve ever had to suffer through. Smooth and rich, these little stumps are nestled in baba ghanoush and topped with cool yogurt and sweet tomato. Very precious, Dale, but very perfect.

Ensemble
Smithe & Thurlow, Vancouver