There is something to be said for spending a lot of money on a nice meal out.  There is also something to be said about well-designed portions.

The Hardware Grill is one of Edmonton’s finest fine-dining establishments. But as Ms Sugar and I talked about on our recent visit, their plate sizes are a little on the hefty side.  If I’m going to have a night of luxe dining complemented by smooth wine and even smoother service, I want the experience to last.  Thus, a 3-course night is generally what’s planned for.  Unfortunately, at Hardware Grill 3 courses equals more than just loosening your belt.  The starters are easily the size of mains at other places, which is both a blessing and a curse.  The value is outstanding, but the even larger main that follows tests the size of your stomach.  The solution?  Two appetizers = enough room for dessert.

And that is what this post is really about.  Why choose to talk about dessert over the richness of duck confit or the velvety texture of pea ravioli?
Because the dessert in question was a pumpkin—you had me at pumpkin—tart.

Polenta crust?  Inventive and tasty but it could have been more tender.
Cinnamon ice cream?  Delish, but a tart is not the best for sopping up melted ice cream.  The traditional whipped cream would have been more successful.
Poached raw pear?  Trying to take a lady-like morsel of a raw pear with only a fork is not something I want to try again.
Fruit Saskatoon compote?  I am a big fan of Saskatoon pie.  Part of what makes the pie work is the crust and cream that soften the blow of the berry’s tartness and firm texture.  A mass of this compote just didn’t work with the pumpkin… or the raw pear… or the ice cream.
Pumpkin filling? Perfection.

Verdict:  An awkward mix of flavours and textures.
Worth $11?  Not even close.

Note to pastry chef:  Bake me a larger tart after you’ve perfected the crust and be sure to go heavy on the cream.

“There’s no such thing as too much cream,” says Cream.