Archive for March, 2009
from the hands of cream and sugar..., from the top shelf of... / 2 Comments
It’s clear that I like to make cookies. It’s clear that I like to make cookies for others. But, when it comes to cookie recipes, I’m rarely surprised. A cookie is a cookie is a cookie. Butter, sugar, flour, salt, eggs.
I have a number of recipes that I gravitate toward, but only one go-to recipe. What makes it special for me is that it contains no white sugar and the butter must be melted. The warm dough has always yielded soft, slightly doughy cookies. I don’t like cookies any other way, really. I’ll make them many other ways, but as I rarely cook for my pleasure, that’s not always important.
In a tradesies situation I created (Fairmount bagels for my baking) I went looking for something to take me out of my baking box. Dorie Greenspan is someone who I’ve been reading for a long while now without trying any of her recipes. With her recent Chocolate Chunker post, my mind was sufficiently intrigued. Easy recipe. Salted peanuts. The word “gooey.”
I don’t have much to say except that I think they are the best cookies I’ve ever made.
I forgot the raisins.
I added cinnamon.
I sprinkled fleur de sel on the tops after baking.
I made monster cookies, easily 2 tablespoons of dough each.
Gooey. Chocolatey. Salty.
Warm dough.
Finger-lickin’ dough.
Make them.
Now.
Tropical heat is a magic ingredient. Temperature, humidity, and sunshine combine to form a fairy dust that touches flowering vegetation in regions of the world lucky enough to hover on central latitudes. I left a world of standard apple-banana-orange colours to fall head over heels in one full of rich hues, aromatic flavours, and addictive textures.
Jewels in the culinary crown of Vietnam, the fruits native to the South are… better than chocolate. Their sweet juices, soft flesh, and heavenly perfumes reference the sun and all the glory that it brings.
The sun bursts from passion fruit, jackfruit, and pommelos.
Can you get much prettier than a mangosteen?
Its thick case is almost sponge-like. You can push on the bottom to crack it and reveal the edible segments. Soft and delicate, they burst with intense sweetness.
In a place where you “don’t drink the water,” the plethora of peel-able fruit is extraordinary. The milk apple requires you only to scoop out the soft middles of the halves or quarters you cut. Doing so releases it’s milky juice that should also be lapped up.
My new favourite fruit is the custard apple. It’s slightly fibrous flesh is dense with tropical sugar (and apparently calories). It is contained within a thick, bumpy skin that could camouflage it as an artichoke from afar. Its custard flesh is dotted with shiny and black kidney-shaped seeds.
I’m not sure how to describe it except to say that it’s heavenly. Perhaps more apt—it’s worth spending 18 hours in a plane to get one.