Though Edmonton is not often thought of as a dining destination, amidst the clutter of chain restaurants and fast food, Edmonton has some great culinary talents who consistently turn out top notch food, bevvies, and treats. With my computer nerd hubby getting ready to welcome a whole bunch of fellow internet marketing peeps to our fair city for a spring conference, I couldn’t resist obliging his request to share the best of Edmonton eating according to moi. In no particular order. Enjoy.

For  eating…

Handmade ravioli at Corso 32

Corso 32
Ridiculous talent and a most sincere love for food, real Italian food, collide at Corso 32 in the inspired hands of chef Daniel Costa. Don’t plan on “showing up” at the door of this popular downtown restaurant hoping for a table. Book well ahead and have your planning rewarded with some of the most perfect food you’ll eat in any city. Some favourites on the ever changing menu include the arancini, house made goat ricotta crostini, whatever today’s ravioli is, and the braised polpette aka meatballs. The cocktail and wine list is notable, too.

Culina Family of Restaurants
Be it lunch at Culina Muttart, or a dinner or weekend brunch at Culina Mill Creek, the Culina family of restaurants never disappoints. With a menu loaded with ethnic inspired comfort food, a focus on local fresh ingredients, and the best cocktail list in the city, there is something for everyone. The bacon and eggs at brunch cannot be beat, and the dinner menu has me ordering goodies like the pork and cheese tortillas, the local chorizo sausage hotpot, and the phyllo wrapped goat cheese, over and over again. And happily so. Um, did I mention the cocktails?

Red Ox Inn
I am ashamed that this is the first time that I have mentioned my love for Red Ox on Cream and Sugar. I think I’ve just been so busy gobbling up their food that taking pictures and writing went astray. Not only is their self proclaimed “serious food in a casual room” outstanding, but both the owners and the front of house staff are about the most gracious people you’ll ever meet. I must confess that I’ve yet to sample the newly revamped menu, but should some old favourites resurface on the ever changing menu, the warm goat cheese salad with bacon and cranberry vinagrette, and the rack of lamb with polenta and cassoulet are not to be missed. Reservations are recommended at this casual fine dining gem nestled just above the river valley.

Carnitas at Tres Carnales

Tres Carnales
These three guys have brought authentic Mexican tacos to the prairies, and plenty of charm to keep the vibe of their casual downtown taqueria humming. Make hard decisions from the mouthwatering menu, order at the counter, and watch your food appear in no time flat. Lunch or dinner, grab a seat at the big communal table and get ready to wolf down a plate (or two!) of Tres Carnales tacos. And don’t forget to order some guacamole y totpos. Salty chips, perfectly seasoned, citrus-ed, fresh guacamole to devour as you wait for the main attraction. The rajas con crema quesidilla and the carnitas tacos are my go-to menu items.

Viphalay
For proper Thai curry and spicy basil chicken, look no further than Viphalay. Hands down the best authentic Thai and Laos food in the city. Now with two downtown locations you can head to the dodgy edge of little Italy, or the quieter tree lined street just south of Jasper Avenue to get your fix. The red curry with bamboo, papaya salad, and penang are my favourites. And for dessert the roti rolls, fresh warm roti smothered in condensed milk and sugar, are my favourite dessert in the whole city.

Acajutla
I love pupusas. If you’ve had one before, you know what I mean. If you haven’t, now’s the time to change that. Acajutla is a little family run El Salvadorean and Mexican restaurant serving up the best little masa enveloped meat, bean, and cheese bundles in town. The decor is less than fancy and the restaurant is located in an “edge of downtown” neighbourhood that has what we’ll call “flavour”, but it’s worth the journey. The mixed pupusas, chicken enchiladas, and lime margaritas on the rocks are stars. Don’t be put off by the ridiculous website that spews latin beats to entice you. What they lack in design savvy and computer know how, they make up for in deliciousness, AND it’s cheap and cheerful!

Tony’s Pizza Palace
Quite simply the best thin crust pizza in the city. Mario’s Special adorned with capicollo, proscuitto, capers, and artichokes is THE one.

Sushi Wasbi
Located in an unassuming little strip mall in South Edmonton’s Lendrum neighbourhood, this small Japanese owned and run sushi house is tops. Rice is always perfectly flavoured, the right amount of sticky, and topped with the freshest of fish. Reservations are recommended, as is the negitoro maki, the agedashi tofu, and the gomae.

The Golden Rice Bowl
This efficient and busy Chinese restaurant is the place that much of the local Asian community chooses for celebrations, special occasions, and family meals, and for good reason. The food is top notch, the room is bustling, the menu is extensive, and the service is quick. Of course many of the most delicious things are not on the menu. I use the “point at other people’s food” method of ordering when something yummy looking comes out. My favourites include the Peking duck (which must be pre-ordered), prawn and scallop nest, house special beef tenderloin with cashew nuts (not on the menu), crispy garlic chicken, garlic pea greens, and Cantonese chow mein.

And now for some treats and bevvies…

Lemon tart at Dauphine Bakery and Bistro

Dauphine Bakery and Bistro
Located on the lovely and revitalized 104th Street downtown, in a bright vaulted basement space in the Armstrong heritage building, Dauphine Bakery and Bistro (formerly known as The Queen of Tarts) turns out some of the best artisan breads, jams, and of course tarts, in the city. The lemon curd tart is worth the trip alone. Perfectly balanced, tart and sweet, it’s citrus perfection. Go for treats, or enjoy a simple French inspired bistro lunch in their charmingly simple, yet sophisticated space.

Da Cappo Caffe
Serving the best freshly made artisan gelato in the city, Da Cappo Caffe is the place to go for creamy pistachio, dulce di latte, and chile chocolate frozen goodness. The coffee is good, too.

Transcend Coffee
This is the cult coffee house in town. Bean heads flock from all over the city to sample Transcend’s serious in house roasts from around the globe. If you end up hooked, a coffee subscription that will deliver the best beans of the month to your door is an easy at home fix.

Eva Sweet Waffles
If you can find one of the happy vans, Eva Sweet waffles are worth seeking out. These perfectly sweet Liege waffles are a thing of beauty, and luckily are also served at a number of cafes around town.

Treats from Duchess Bake Shoppe

Duchess Bake Shoppe
Drawing the masses to 124th Street for perfectly executed Parisian macarons, in flavours like rose, pistachio, and salted caramel, Duchess is a sweet treat for proper French pastries and treats. Perfect butter croissants, gorgeous tarts and cakes, sour cherry pie, lovely house blended teas, fresh marshmallows, and simply delicious sandwiches, you will find plenty of ways to satisfy any craving here. Get in line and prepare to make hard decisions with so many gorgeous things peering back at you through the pretty glass case.

Sugar Bowl
With the best beer list in the city, from Belgian to Quebecois selections, this is the place to go for a frosty mug. Nestled in a casual bustling space just over the High Level bridge on the edge of the University of Alberta campus, this popular spot is packed from morning to night drawing crowds not only for its lagers and witbiers, but for its great food and famously perfect cinnamon buns.

La Poutine
Because lord knows after you drink all that beer, you’ll need some top notch poutine. Fries, squeaky curds, gravy. Need I say more?

BiBO
From the Culina family of restaurants, my favourite tiny little spot to sit on a bench and drink a great glass of wine is BiBO. Nestled two doors down from Culina Mill Creek, this petite candle lit space is always pumping out an eclectic mix of moody music and filling glasses with beautiful wines and perfect recommendations.

The Confederation Lounge at the Hotel MacDonald
And lastly, in honour of great Edmonton institutions, there is something so lovely about walking through the doors of the hotel MacDonald and strolling into the grand but den like Confederation lounge for something on the rocks, or in a big wine glass, or perhaps in the form of a steaming boozy blueberry tea. And when warm weather cooperates, it has quite simply the best patio for a “drink with a view” in the city.

Here’s a map!

View Best of Edmonton Dining, Snacking, and Drinking in a larger map

Today’s Special: Arctic char with fennel risotto, The Marc
I was very disappointed when I heard that Il Portico was closing… for a parking lot. I have many fond memories of many meals and parties there over the years — for instance, my last meal in Edmonton before moving to Toronto; a Christmas party where I ate too much; a Christmas party where I drank too much; a dessert date with Sugar. When news came to me here in Vancouver that its former manager, Patrick Saurette, would be opening up a new restaurant nearby, The Marc, I was excited to try it out on a recent trip home. Elegant and modern but not stuffy, I think The Marc is sure to make its mark (sorry!) on the Edmonton dining scene with its French bistro-inspired menu. The skin on the char was perfectly crisp and seasoned, and the fennel risotto had a flavour that was assertive enough to stand up to the fish. If only it was a short drive away, I’d be back to sit on the large patio with one of their cocktails and an order of pommes frites.

The Marc, Edmonton

Today’s Special: High Tea at the Arbour Restaurant at Rutherford House
Warm sweet scones, Devonshire cream, raspberry butter that is equal parts butter and jam, and a perfect cup of Earl Grey tea with milk and sugar. With the gentle spring sun beaming through the old paned arbour windows, this is a sweet weekend indulgence.

Today’s Special: Mario’s Special at Tony’s Pizza Palace

Quite simply my favourite pizza in the city. Perfect thin crust. Prosciutto. Capicollo. Artichokes. Capers. Houdini-esque disappearing act.

I had my first pupusa six years ago at Acajutla.  It was a moment that changed my carb-loving life forever.

Not much more than a corn dough pocket filled with good stuff like seasoned pork, refried beans, and cheese, the simple pupusa from El Salvador has few culinary rivals in my world.

[Apologies in advance for the many cellphone camera photos.]

Naked Acajutla pupusas

Fully dressed Acajutla pupusas

I was happy enough with my Acajutla relationship until El Rancho came along.
With additional filling offerings such as zucchini and loroco, my fidelity was seriously in question.  After my first taste, my heart now belonged to another.

If you’re from Edmonton, it is likely that someone at some point has asked if you are on Team Acajutla or Team El Rancho.
Me? Team El Rancho.

El Rancho pupusas

But in a town where you’re lucky enough to choose between the two, the difference is really just preference, not because one is substantially better than the other.
I find that El Rancho pupusas tend to be smaller, thicker, and with a crispier exterior.  They are easier to eat with your hands if you like to split them open.  Acajutla pupusas are cheesier and have a larger diameter.  In terms of the pupusa accoutrements, Acajutla makes a better salsa roja (red sauce), El Rancho, a better curtido (cabbage slaw).

El Rancho pupusas split

It’s all apples to apples after that for me.  I like the homemade tortilla of an Acajutla burrito, but I like the El Rancho insides better.  Acajutla gets many points for their avocado sauce, but El Rancho has better desserts… I love their tres leches cake.

Acajutla burrito

And I can’t forget about El Rancho’s salad.  I have no idea what their brown dressing is, but it’s addictive.

El Rancho's house salad

I will greatly miss it.

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This post marks my end in Edmonton and my beginning in Vancouver.

Cream has jumped the Rockies and set herself up on the West Coast.

This weekend, I finished getting everything out of boxes and am starting to feel comfy in my new home.
To celebrate, I went for pupusas.
With one mixed, two bean and cheese, and a side of guacamole as a nod to Acajutla’s green sauce, I have found a little piece of El Salvador to remind me of home.  And right on Commercial Drive.

El Rancho
11810 87 St
Edmonton

Acajutla
11302 107 Ave
Edmonton

Rinconcito Salvadoreno
2062 Commercial Drive
Vancouver

The Hardware Grill is one of Edmonton’s finest fine-dining establishments. But as Ms Sugar and I talked about on our recent visit, their plate sizes are a little on the hefty side.  If I’m going to have a night of luxe dining complemented by smooth wine and even smoother service, I want the experience to last.  Thus, a 3-course night is generally what’s planned for.  Unfortunately, at Hardware Grill 3 courses equals more than just loosening your belt.  The starters are easily the size of mains at other places, which is both a blessing and a curse.  The value is outstanding, but the even larger main that follows tests the size of your stomach.  The solution?  Two appetizers = enough room for dessert.

And that is what this post is really about.  Why choose to talk about dessert over the richness of duck confit or the velvety texture of pea ravioli?
Because the dessert in question was a pumpkin—you had me at pumpkin—tart.

Polenta crust?  Inventive and tasty but it could have been more tender.
Cinnamon ice cream?  Delish, but a tart is not the best for sopping up melted ice cream.  The traditional whipped cream would have been more successful.
Poached raw pear?  Trying to take a lady-like morsel of a raw pear with only a fork is not something I want to try again.
Fruit Saskatoon compote?  I am a big fan of Saskatoon pie.  Part of what makes the pie work is the crust and cream that soften the blow of the berry’s tartness and firm texture.  A mass of this compote just didn’t work with the pumpkin… or the raw pear… or the ice cream.
Pumpkin filling? Perfection.

Verdict:  An awkward mix of flavours and textures.
Worth $11?  Not even close.

Note to pastry chef:  Bake me a larger tart after you’ve perfected the crust and be sure to go heavy on the cream.

“There’s no such thing as too much cream,” says Cream.